A collection dedicated to the Parisienne debuting at Paris Fashion Week walks a fine line between cliché and captivating. It’s a familiar trope, one that has inspired designers past and present. But when this risky execution of Paris’ opulent eroticism falls into Burc Akyol’s hands, we know we’re safe.
French-born but of Turkish descent, Akyol arrived in Paris during his adolescence and has lived and worked there ever since. After years spent pouring his life into his designs, it was time to take a step back— to take in the city that was once new and exciting to the sixteen-year-old who had just arrived. Now 37, the designer celebrates the eighth year of his eponymous label through an exploration of his monomaniac love for the archetypal Parisian woman.
Dedicated to his nostalgic depictions of Paris — the one he dreamed of long before he made it to the city — the collection is steeped in the codes you might expect: class and elegance, with that raw eroticism humming just below the surface.
Newly awarded the Pierre Bergé Prize at the ANDAM Fashion Awards last year, Akyol’s cult following was recognised for his innovative, sharp designs and expert tailoring. This season, necklines scooped low on a floor-length leopard knit dress and a black satin shirt paired with a tightly draped skirt. High-neck jersey dresses split far past the thigh, up to the hips, while the same high necks appeared again in finely knit sweaters, black lace dresses, and even a structured denim jacket buttoned tightly at the collar. Vinyl appeared draped into dresses — an unusual yet successful subversion of the material.
Fur coats, some sweeping to the floor and others cut boxier, added a luxurious weight. Wrapped jackets transformed into voluminous mini skirts, while polka dot tights winked at a childlike admiration for the ever-revered Parisienne who never misses a detail.
Not just for the dress-draped figures, the collection also shifted toward androgyny, with strong, sharp shoulders on finely tailored blazers loosely framing the waist. Breezy suit trousers pooled over black stiletto court heels, while stirrup leggings elongated silhouettes, balanced by those powerful, structured shoulders.
In emulating the swirling, sultry freedom that young Akyol always admired, the collection achieved exactly that — a beautifully nostalgic dream made real, and one the quintessential Parisienne would wear with pride.
