For Lilia Litkovska, her SS26 collection served as an ode to Ukrainian warriors and fallen soldiers, with a dual perspective that placed emphasis on the fight from within. Drifting notions of belonging and displacement created an emotional yet beautiful narrative. And while the designer showcased in Paris, it was clear that this was a love letter to her Ukrainian homeland.
The space, which was lined floor to ceiling with camouflage, set the stage for a collection steeped in contrasts. Classic to Litkovska’s style, a dialogue emerged between the delicate and the sharp. “Much of my inspiration comes from art brut. I love people who didn’t study art, they just simply do it,” she explained. A particular work on flowers sparked the floral embroideries threaded throughout, acting as symbols of fragility and renewal that softened tailored silhouettes. Panelled jackets, their raw hems suggesting garments torn apart and pieced back together, spoke of resilience, while dresses and slips reinforced the idea that no single look had a prescribed form. Instead, each piece became an open invitation to experiment.
Accessories echoed this ethos. Bags were conceived as transformative objects, shifting shape and function according to the wearer’s needs. “It’s never just the one option,” Litkovska said. “I want my garments to be multifunctional. I don’t like the idea of the brand making the entire decision—it is a joint choice between user and designer.” That philosophy of shared authorship gave the collection a democratic spirit, blurring the lines between creator and participant. Hand-carved wooden flowers also appeared throughout the show in the form of necklaces, extending the floral motif into bold, tactile jewellery.
A soundtrack of poetry and music by Yuri Khustochka and Irena Karpa filled the room. “They are both legends in Ukraine,” Litkovska told me after the show. What began as youthful admiration for Karpa had grown into friendship and creative collaboration—a fitting reflection of the collection’s themes of connection and resilience.
