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Just as I was beginning to think we had hit a collective wall for moisture wicking nylon, Kolor in the first collection since Junichi Abe’s departure and under the new creative direction of Taro Horiuchi, brings us his own wonderfully playful and operatic interpretation of gorpcore. Nylon, polyblend, thermotex, ripstop- et cetera, are met with a soft regality evoked by clever abstraction of antiquated historical forms. With its signature imaginative detailing applied to these contrast dimensions of reference, Kolor spins a clever fairytale of utilitarian romance and medieval-futurism. Think, like, REI does Commedia dell’Arte.
In maintaining these theatrical archetypes a strong narrative is tied throughout the collection, painting a royal court of sorts- but the brand codes of elegant mismatching and implicit hodgepodge allow constant play within their own world that reinforces the brand’s unfaltering whimsy and relevance. With fey grace, Kolor’s models stepped off the pages of their own storybook and seamlessly onto the runway, maybe even overshooting by a century or so. Somewhere in translation from their world to ours, the silhouette of a puffed out bustle becomes a deconstructed windbreaker peplum and tulle crinoline. A camouflage cotton top buttons up and tightens like a baroque corset, exaggerated ruching drapes down the hips mimicking the ballooning architecture of ball gown mid-bloom. Collapsed trench coat tailoring gives way to the form of an opera cape.
In another look, the mermaid train of what could have been a silk sleeping gown, turns into a billowing chartreuse parachute interrupted by a cinched black blazer. The shape of a burlap peasant tunic reconsidered in chocolate nylon with a drawstring drop waist makes this expectedly frumpy form seem suddenly, timeless and chic. Red knee-high socks and buckled loafers bring jesterly comedy to otherwise restrained masculine looks. Retroreflective silver finds itself patch-worked into the shoulders and lapels of oversized blazers, hinting at the shadow of luscious antique embellishments that ornaments these distinctly contemporary reiterations. Pops of argyle, pastels, and pinstripe amongst inter-spliced classic tailoring render the more dramatic influences lighthearted and current.
The neck of a fleece hiking jacket is juxtaposed over a polka-dotted oversize chemise, like that of a piqué bib. Ruched drawstring pouch-belts are strategically placed on the hips to create utilitarian bustles that peak and pop out of many looks to reinforce their archaic and frivolous forms in a now functional manner. I have never been more inclined to wear a fanny pack.
To describe the pieces in the collection is almost to get lost in their abstraction and the world they live in, but despite its avant-gardism and tech-forward materials, a soft naturalism ties these planes together. The renaissance-era serf to 22nd century trailblazer pipeline is surprisingly, quite clear. And despite their contradictions, we are still all collectively reaching back to the earth.
Now gone as soon as they came, a grounding lightness settles in the air as the music and clapping dies down- the familiar pleasure of having seen a good show.
Merci Kolor, à bientôt
X
Rianna Murray
