Dear Shaded viewers,
An air of romance worked its way into the usual punkish rebel attitude we anticipate from Vaquera at their FW25 show. As designers Bryn Taubensee and Patric DiCaprio await their big move to Paris coming this summer, following their studio and production after Dover Street Market took it in, they created a bold look that weaves reflections of their last 10 years working together in New York with their excitement for what the future holds.
Vaquera has always been centered around the idea of the American Dream, through the lens of youths in the 21st century who dare to dream beyond the States and the world itself. Taubensee and DiCaprio referred to the evolution of collective goals and values by pulling silhouette and shape inspiration from the 1920s and 1980s, periods defined by indulgence and power in their respective ways. Bold, angular shoulders lead to low waistlines, accentuating a cool-girl swing of the hips. By now an integral part of the Vaquera DNA, bubble skirts were elongated to ankle length, and tapered at different levels down the leg for a classy twist on swagger. The oversized fits on moto and double-breasted jackets, silky button ups and chunky knitwear paired with bow and pillbox hats, leather driving gloves, and lush faux fur scarves for a refined irreverence.
A somber colour palette spoke unequivocally to the Parisian scene, transitioning swiftly from black to white with flashes of pale pink and leopard in between. The Marigela-coded white paint on knitwear, denim and a trench coat as well as a nude bodysuit with protruding shoulder-pads left no doubt that Taubensee and DiCaprio know exactly where they are moving to and who they are designing for. Experiments with suit lining in shirting, pants and skirts, and more-so a structured suit jacket sliced in half with open seams were as edgy as one would expect, but on a deeper level reflected the work-escapism and new age expectations of adult life.
Vaquerisms continue to adapt and grow – quite literally. Bauble sized pearls hung loose on necklaces, swinging to knee length and glowing against shiny black or grey cracked leather. Their bestselling piece, the bra-printed t-shirt came to life with giant satin brassieres worn as tops, dresses or skirts, hanging off the shoulder and almost large enough to be dragging on the floor. Whether that’s New York or Paris inspired, who knows, but I have a feeling we’re about to see a whole lot more bra in both cities.
One of Taubensee and DiCaprio’s biggest hopes for Vaquera has always been to maintain a level of commerciality that makes their pieces accessible, wearable, and more affordable without compromising on a daring and idiosyncratic vision. This collection, more than ever, achieves it.
Later,
Eliya
