Dear Shaded Viewers,
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, known for his sensual and minimalist aesthetic, took the helm at Jean Paul Gaultier as guest designer for the Spring 2025 Couture collection. His debut, titled “Le Naufrage” (The Shipwreck), was a gripping exploration of maritime themes and archival references, all with a touch of mythical allure.
The show took place at Gaultier’s headquarters in Paris, transforming the space into a stage for de Saint Sernin’s high-seas drama. Models walked to the sound of crashing waves, embodying characters from a shipwrecked tale – sailors, mermaids, and pirates. The collection masterfully blended elements of ruin and rebirth, as if each garment had been salvaged from the depths of the ocean.
De Saint Sernin skillfully incorporated Gaultier’s iconic elements, such as corsetry and sailor stripes with his own signature sensuality. Corsets were transformed into otherworldly shapes, while rope finishes and fishnet textures added a raw edge, reminiscent of a storm-ravaged vessel. Anchors, steering wheels, and reef-like embroideries hinted at hidden treasures and the mysteries of the seas.
The collection was populated by a cast of mythical characters. Mélusine, the mermaid, emerged in a verdigris satin gown with a trailing, net-like skirt. The Helm, a strapless mini-dress in macramé, featured ship helm details at the bust, while a scrim of silk tulle evoked stormy waters. Each look told a story, drawing inspiration from mythology, literature, and even pop culture.
Although some designs seemed out of place, the overall theme was beautifully put together. The show itself gave off the feeling that these characters were emerging from a shipwreck, as they appeared, seemingly drenched, shivering and unbalanced unto the runway. Ludovic de Sernin’s take on JPG this season showed the world that he is well capable of honouring a brand’s legacy while injecting his own unique vision into it, creating a collection that is both timeless and contemporary.
Later,
Bethany
