Walter Says They Come in Peace. by Eliya Weinstein

 

Dear Shaded viewers,

Walter Van Beirendonck insists there is no question: he has met the aliens, and even with their creepy, elongated digits, they are our friends. While he celebrates the ethics and sustainability of the fashion industry’s tendency to look back in time for inspiration and critical comparison, his goal for SS25 is to remind us of the untapped world of undiscovered innovation that lies ahead.

Walter craves the new—both literally, puffing up and scrolling the word “NEW!” across the backs of his garments, and imaginatively, with refreshed takes on classical suiting. His vision of newness is a suit that seems like a clever disguise for otherworldly beings. Starting with the exceptional quality of English and Scottish fabrics, Walter demonstrates how subtle tweaks and innovative techniques can yield entirely new forms. Ballooning trousers are given extra pleating, paired with slim, elongated jackets that create unexpected proportions for the body. In his show notes, Walter admitted, “Setting up technical processes and finessing prototype after prototype is expensive.” Who knew dressing aliens could be so costly?

Walter’s signature neon colour combinations translate seamlessly into this extraterrestrial theme, appearing in small details like alien faces and patches, as well as in full-body alien suits. Bomber jackets featuring AI-generated designs reminded us that the future comes in peace. Meanwhile, the all-black looks—including fully faux fur ensembles—turned up the creepy factor while drawing attention to the forms, shapes, and textures achieved through cutting-edge design technology.

Models donned comically oversized Stephen Jones bowler hats and “W” caps lined with fringe extending nearly to ankle length, serving as whimsical disguises. After circling the expansive runway, each model arrived at a teddy bear chair that matched their outfit, sitting stone-faced until the entire fleet had gathered. At Walter’s command, they all raised their long silicon fingers in a peace sign, driving home the message Walter has consistently championed: a call for peace.

Later,

Eliya