Dear Shaded viewers,
EGONLAB is best known for effortlessly blurring the lines between genders. To explore themes of struggle and resilience, SS25 was a reflection on radical marginalization and its evolution through time, exploring themes of struggle and resilience with references to the Salem witch trials.
The collection, titled S4LEM, was dark and bold while maintaining an unexpected softness in silhouette, fabric, and colour. It stripped away preconceptions of traditionally feminine design elements, refreshingly abandoning the idea of androgyny to allow these elements to exist as they are.
Structured tailoring contrasted with oversized, rounded arms and cinched waistlines, drawing from a diversity of body shapes into a new, united form. Asymmetrical folds and draping introduced sensuality—sometimes paired with slivers of silk, other times peeling away to reveal bare skin. The collars and arms of sweaters extended into voluminous raglan edges, evoking the look of centuries of melted candle wax accumulated. It must be said: it finally feels unnecessary to comment on skirts styled on men.
Fabrics wrapped themselves around the body, extending from one pant leg into a scarf or folding over as an extra layer of warmth on puffers. The colour palette was minimalistic, with the show opening in black with touches of cream, gradually introducing shades of brown, dark berry, blood red, and powder pink. The darker dye around the ankles achieved through a wax induction technique seemed fated; pant legs appeared wet like the audience who had just stepped in from the pouring rain. Pearls and cracked buttons added a mystical shine as if lit by the moon, seemingly fragile yet resisting the tests of time and wear.
In collaboration with Zadig&Voltaire, EGONLAB. understated the mystifying energy and toughness of witches to achieve a modern take on elegance. Together, they crafted the highest quality leather into fringed tops, which hung around the neck on gold chains, and fringed bags, clutched in hand or slung across the body.
Crackling fire sounds warmed the room before the audience, spellbound, was sent back into the storm.
Later,
Eliya
