Dear Shaded viewers,
‘Grounded’ was the title of Peter Do’s SS25 collection, symbolizing his Vietnamese roots as a source of design inspiration and the literal techniques and materials that went into the making of each garment. The collection serves as a minimalistic proposition for the essentials of an effortlessly elegant summer wardrobe. Balancing the demands of his own line and those of Helmut Lang, Peter focuses his namesake label on more personal sartorial stories, deepening the connection to his Vietnamese heritage and neighboring Asian traditions.
Staged at the Musée Guimet, which houses one of the largest collections of Asian art collections outside of Asia, Peter Do’s SS25 show welcomed stone sculptures into the audience. The garments, with their fluid deconstruction and oversized tailoring, seemed to melt on the body. Relaxed summer silhouettes, welcoming to all genders, called for a cool breeze to blow through them. Adjustable ties and asymmetrical slashes lined with buttons allowed the wearer the freedom to customize proportions according to their whims. Featherweight wool, chiffon, silk, cotton, and a new fabric resembling crushed paper maintain grace with a lived-in quality, while twisted openings and open backs allow the skin to breathe.
The airy feeling was maintained even in layered pieces, with each androgynous shape coming together to look effortless yet deliberate in its consideration of negative space. Textures were enhanced with pleats and bias-cut draped dresses that modernized traditional Vietnamese garments. Upcycled shirts, jeans, and sweatshirts were hand-torn, almost shredded, for an unexpected play on conventional dressing. While much of the collection was monochromatic, emphasizing fluidity and timelessness, a few florals were adapted from Peter’s personal sketchbook in intricate embroideries and hand-painted prints.
Do collaborated with Philip Huang for the natural dyeing of his textiles, embedding artisanal heritage in every fiber. Artisans in Phakkhamphu Village of the region Sakon Nakhon in Thailand harnessed all-natural elements with century-old techniques shared through generations. They foraged Isan Olives, Ebony berries, and various local tree barks, preserved, fermented, boiled over a wood fire, and cleansed in clear creek waters to achieve oxblood, stone, and midnight hues – all rich in natural energy. In the final looks, outerwear for men and women featured irregular ombre patterns created through expert control of this dyeing process.
This season also introduced a new line to Do’s universe: modular garments crafted with timeless versatility. Named ‘168’ after the number of hours in a week, it proposes a uniform that transcends time, gender, or season. Ultra-lux technical satin pieces in black feature a white line down one side, a design inspired by Do’s own tattoo, offering a personal connection to the many who love his work.
Later,
Eliya
