Dear Shaded Viewers,
Celebrating 25 years at the helm of her brand Sacai, Chitose Abe decided that looking backwards towards the past was a good place to start in her search for this seasons inspirational references. Sacai house codes were refreshed and reimagined with ruffles, deconstruction and of course Abe’s signature trompe-l’oeil.
Though the collection was grounded in timeless wardrobe staples, it embraced a distinctly French aesthetic. Couture-inspired details elevated the classic peacoats, marinière sweaters, trenches, and army-surplus jackets. In other pieces, she creatively repurposed utilitarian shapes. Imagine a military parka split and reconfigured into a dramatic dress with exposed shoulders – very Sacai indeed! A Breton-style top was transformed into a minidress, while a dress with ruffles was ingeniously constructed from the shoulders of a trench coat. Elsewhere a boiler suit was given a sultry makeover with strategically placed panels.
The collection featured a palette of black, utilitarian neutrals, and white, punctuated by pops of plaid and big-cat print. Culminating in three stunning evening looks, the show brought Abe’s design brilliance to life. The deconstructed jackets, the style Le Smoking were both formal and radical at the same time.
Abe has pioneered a unique language of hybridization, unlocking a world of possibilities in fashion. While most designers are content with a single strong aesthetic, Abe has defined countless silhouettes, from classic to avant-garde.
Later,
Bethany
