Dear Shaded viewers,
Uma Wang’s vision for SS25 was an ode to minimalism, inspired by Constantin Brancusi’s famous words: “Simplicity is complexity resolved.” After visiting the Romanian sculptor’s recent retrospective at the Centre Pompidou, Wang decided to explore the beauty hidden behind the extraneous. Only memories remained of sleek city styles as garments were reduced to their essentials.
Silhouettes seemed to evolve before our eyes, growing and shifting with invisible force like tectonic plates, vibrating through asymmetry and impressive ruffles. Each look was constructed like a sculpture, exploring all dimensions around the body, and imagining new contours. Forms held firmly, but through organic lines appeared fluid and light.
Wang wanted us to know that the beauty of the garment comes from its use. Crinkles, lines, and draping moved as if the fabric was breathing. Shapes, like gestures, were repeated yet expressed a range of sentiments in different materials. Jacquards were used in reverse, waxes and washes left time undefined. Monochrome gesso, tobacco, wine red, cocoa, and charcoal portrayed dimensions and depth through fabric treatments, like in hidden layers of earth beneath the ground. Prints were minimal, recalled florals from Wang’s early archives, delicately covering textiles almost like trompe l’œil of movement. Accessories featured mirror shards, little glimpses into another world.
The back was left to be seen. In Wang’s view, its sensuality, the movement of the spine, and the delicate sprinkle of freckles should be left untouched. She drew back to the weightlessness of Brancusi’s works – stones that seem like they could fly – with shoulder blades exposed as if space was left for wings.
Under the dim lights of the American Cathedral of Paris, a strong spiritual energy was released with this collection – the power of letting details speak for themselves.
Later,
Eliya
