Dear Shaded Viewers,
In a daring move against the backdrop of a faltering luxury market, VETEMENTS unveiled its SS25 collection by creative director Guram Gvasalia. The collection serves as a powerful statement, challenging the industry’s status quo in the face of economic uncertainty and shifting consumer values. As traditional luxury models face increasing scrutiny, VETEMENTS proposes a radical rethinking of what it means to be a luxury brand, telling the world that its cool to ‘Do It Yourself.’
The show, aptly titled “Time to Clean Up the Mess,” unfolded in a semi-derelict Parisian mall. Guests were greeted by a towering, multicolored pile of deadstock clothing, setting the stage for Guram’s new collection. This visually striking spectacle reflected a future where consumerism is reimagined. As the designer explained, “It speaks to a future where consumers no longer have the desire, or the means, to participate in relentless luxury consumption. Instead, they adopt a DIY mindset, creating unique, conceptual pieces from what remains.”
The collection was full of the playful deconstruction of everyday objects, reimagined as high-fashion pieces. His cheeky twists on familiar brands were a highlight. DHL’s iconic red-and-yellow tape was transformed into a striking dress, while a scandalous tabloid was repurposed into a gown. A neon tee emblazoned with the Monster Energy logo and intentionally exposed garment tags satirised the superficiality of modern consumer culture.
Though many believe that Guram is still very much inspired by his brother, Denma Gvasalia’s — currently creative director of Balenciaga designs there is still much to be said about the creativity behind this seasons offering. Embracing a raw, unpolished aesthetic. Key pieces in the collection included oversized blazers, baggy jeans, and chunky leather coats that challenged traditional notions of luxury. Dark, dramatic gowns further emphasized the collection’s rebellious spirit. Guram’s decision to focus on unfinished designs was a deliberate response to the fashion industry’s overproduction.
Call it what you want the Gvasalia brothers do have a certain je ne sais quoi and Guram is determined to show the world his genius.
