Dear Shaded Viewers,
The Erdem ss25 collection was nothing short of magnificent. British designer Erdem Moriagulou presented a collection that was an ode to ‘The Well of Loneliness’ by Radclyffe Hall first published in 1928. Set amidst the enormous backdrop of the British museum, home to many storied artists and poets, Moralıoğlu presented his own masterpiece on the runway.
The collection was an exploration on the push and pull of masculine and feminine dressing and identity. Blurring the parameters of menswear and womenswear, suits —made in collaboration with Savile Row’s Edward Sexton— appear in dusky pink and pistachio, while tailoring merged together with drop waist silhouettes synonymous with the roaring 20’s. Slouchy mens cardigans and blazers were paired with tea dresses and elsewhere garments featuring loosely structured cyanotype prints of flapper dresses were adorned with a lavish display of jewels.
Moralıoğlu’s signature floral motifs were ubiquitous throughout the collection. However, they were reimagined in a more abstract and geometric manner, adding a modern twist to the designer’s signature aesthetic. The colour palette was also muted, with shades of white, ivory, grey, and navy dominating the runway. One of the standout pieces was a flowing dress adorned with a vibrant floral print. The dress was paired with a men’s cardigan, creating a striking contrast between masculine and feminine elements. Other notable pieces included a tailored blazer with a feminine peplum detail and a pair of wide-leg trousers with a floral print.
Bags also made a runway debut during the show. The Bloom Bag in calfskin leather with a hammered brass bud handle gave the collection all the opulence it needed.
Overall, Erdem’s SS25 collection was a triumph of design. By exploring the nuances of gender identity and expression, Moralıoğlu created a collection that was both timeless and contemporary.
Later,
Bethany
