Dear Shaded Viewers,
The Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris is staging an exhibition from October 1, 2024, to March 30, 2025, marking the 35th anniversary of the National Association for the Development of Fashion Arts (ANDAM). This celebration promises to be an exploration of fashion’s bold and visionary spirit, showcasing a selection of 30 silhouettes and accessories donated by past ANDAM prize winners.
Picture yourself walking through a hall where the genius of Martin Margiela rubs shoulders with the avant-garde flair of Ester Manas, the whimsical creativity of Jeremy Scott, and the futuristic visions of Marine Serre. The exhibition, titled “Fashion – New Generations: 35 years of ANDAM,” is a testament to the eclecticism and diversity that define contemporary fashion.
The themes of the exhibition are as varied as the designers it celebrates. From the revealing and reshaping of the human body to pressing environmental concerns and the reinterpretation of fashion history, the display reflects ANDAM’s forward-thinking approach. The curated selection by Sophie Lemahieu highlights not only the aesthetic diversity but also the technical prowess and craftsmanship of these creators. Since its inception, ANDAM has been a nurturing ground for innovation in fashion, and this exhibition is a vivid portrayal of its impact.
The exhibition revisits the early days of ANDAM with the groundbreaking 1989 fashion show that catapulted Martin Margiela into the limelight with his deconstructed garments and repurposed objects. That same year, Olivier Guillemin made waves with his fusion of medieval and sci-fi aesthetics, paving his way to become the artistic director of Paco Rabanne. The influence of these early visionaries is palpable throughout the exhibition, which also pays homage to the likes of Gareth Pugh, Jeremy Scott, and Y/Project.
ANDAM’s legacy is one of fostering talent and innovation. Each year, the association identifies and rewards emerging talents, offering them the resources to make their mark in Paris and beyond. This year’s exhibition is no exception, featuring contributions from the latest laureates of 2023 and 2024, including Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, Duran Lantink, and Christopher Esber.
In addition to celebrating these designers, the exhibition shines a spotlight on the inventiveness of accessory creators, with standout pieces such as the imaginative bags of 31 Février, the innovative footwear of Vincenrubin, and the exquisite jewelry of Charlotte Chesnais and Stéphanie d’Heygere. A special tribute is reserved for the late Vicente Rey, whose feather shoes remain an enduring symbol of his creative legacy.
Founded in 1989 by Nathalie Dufour and initially chaired by Pierre Bergé, ANDAM was established to champion fashion as a vital creative industry. Over the years, ANDAM’s reach has expanded, garnering support from both public institutions and private enterprises, and increasing its financial support to laureates to a remarkable 700,000 euros annually.
From the inception of the Museum of Fashion Arts by Jack Lang in 1986, now the Fashion and Textile department of the Museum of Decorative Arts, to the rich tapestry of more than 78,000 works it houses, the journey is both historical and contemporary. This collection, ranging from Coptic textiles to modern haute couture, embodies the evolution of fashion, showcasing legendary names like Charles Frederick Worth, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Yves Saint Laurent.
This anniversary exhibition is not just a celebration of ANDAM’s past but a beacon for its future. It underscores the shared mission of ANDAM and the Museum of Decorative Arts: to elevate the craftsmanship of fashion, honor its creators, and preserve their contributions for generations to come.
In the words of Nathalie Dufour, founder and general director of ANDAM, and Guillaume Houzé, its current president, the mission remains clear: to ensure that Paris continues to be an unassailable fashion capital. As we immerse ourselves in the visionary works on display, we witness the vibrant future of fashion, shaped by the innovative spirit of ANDAM and the enduring legacy of the Museum of Decorative Arts.
Later,
Diane
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
107 Rue de Rivoli, 75001, Paris
