The Art of Fan Culture Reimagined at Doublet SS 25 by Leticia Dare

Dear Shaded Viewers,


Masayuki Ino, the maestro of Japanese pop culture, delivers another dose of his quirky genius with Doublet’s latest collection. For Spring/Summer 2025, Ino dives into the fervent world of “oshi”—fan culture—transforming it into a delightful runway spectacle that only he could pull off.

Imagine a concert crowd, standing-room-only, waving homemade uchiwa fans inscribed with cheeky messages like “Blow a kiss!” and “We love Doublet!” The scene is set outside, a makeshift concert arena brimming with energy. Ino’s inspiration? Those cringeworthy yet beloved ita bags and itasha, the epitome of Japan’s intense fan devotion.

This season, Ino reimagines these cultural icons into biker jackets adorned with anime badges encased in clear vinyl. Gold and silver pom-poms morph into sleeves and clutches, while AI-generated anime characters splash across T-shirts and jeans. The audacity continues with goggles flaunting oversized love hearts and varsity jerseys brazenly declaring “Your Only Fans” in bubblegum pink.

But beneath the playful surface lies serious craftsmanship. Ino’s dedication to innovative materials shines, from Spiber’s protein-grown fabric to bio-PVC derived from apple seeds and skins. It’s a thank-you note to his supporters, echoing through beautifully cut trousers and jackets that balance the collection’s whimsy with elegance.

Backstage, Ino is the man of the hour, surrounded by admirers and industry veterans alike, all celebrating his unique vision. Since clinching the LVMH Prize in 2018, Ino has consistently expanded Doublet’s fan base, proving that fashion can be both fun and thought-provoking.

Doublet’s SS25 show wasn’t just a presentation; it was an anime-inspired festival that closed Paris Fashion Week with a bang. Set on the grounds of lycée polyvalent de Turgot, with rolled banners and a hot takoyaki stand, it was a feast for the senses.

The collection kicked off with a burst of intrigue—militaristic wool coats, metallic pompom accessories, and cheerleader-embroidered pullovers paired with distressed denim. Football jerseys featuring Spiber logos and exploded Levi’s red tags added to the eclectic mix. Judges’ paddles allowed the audience to become part of the show, adding a layer of playful critique.

Canadian tuxedos with utilitarian gilets, heroic capes, and motorcycle jackets ready for the journey ahead defined the latter part of the collection. And let’s not forget the “I Heart Protein” tees, a tongue-in-cheek nod to classic tourist swag, infused with Ino’s signature wit.

Ino’s latest offering is a testament to his playful authenticity. Doublet continues to blur the lines between fashion and fan culture, making every show a must-see event. With each collection, Ino proves he’s not just fashion’s premier funnyman but a true innovator who understands the heart of popular culture.





Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.