Marine Serre Takes Florence by Storm as Guest Designer of Pitti Uomo 106 By Bethany Berkeley


Dear Shaded Viewers,

For her First ever collection outside of Paris Marine Serre transported guests to the idyllic Villa Di Maiano in Florence. As the guest designer for this years Pitti Uomo Trade Show, Serre unveiled a collection that included both menswear and womenswear.

The sun set the stage for the show with an amazing view of the clear blue skies to be seen from our seats. An experimental Italian quartet struck up a chord creating a ceremonial ambience, whilst the opening look – a black voluminous skirt with ruched details, worn with a backless silver top made from necklaces – embodied Marine Serre’s signature style.

The collection, featured around 50 looks and stayed true to Serre’s core principles. Upcycling and tailoring remained prominent themes, whilst incorporation a newer satirical playfulness. Workwear fabrics were given a new lease on life, with Serre experimented with silhouettes, adding unexpected elements to dresses and tailoring sharp shoulders on jackets. Her first foray into airbrushing could be seen in multiplying her signature crescent moon logo on leather pieces.

Serre drew inspiration from the “golden age” of crime films, namely ‘The Godfather’, reimagining the genre’s characters with a bold black and red palette. Sharply tailored pieces mixed with sensuous red leather, creating a late-seventies vibe that had a modern, industrial edge. Upcycled tartan scarves were transformed into coats and cotton tote bags, while signature silk scarves are ingeniously twisted and encased in mesh fabric. Elsewhere, regenerated denim is embellished with leather accents, and transformed into a stunning couture dress.

As the collection draws to a close a more serene series of looks emerges. Pure white silhouettes crafted from upcycled linens glided down the runway. Classic tailoring, bridal looks, and touches of upcycled lace could be seen as they went.

The show titled “SEMPRE LEGATI” or “Always Connected”, was emulated through the collection. The final dress expressing the concept of a universal community, was a self-referential couture dress made from upcycled t-shirts, echoing the inspiration behind Serre’s first collection after the Paris attacks – a “Radical Call for Love” symbolised by the now-iconic moon logo.




Bethany Berkeley

Bethany is a fashion writer bringing different perspectives to the world of fashion. Beyond trends, she continuously delves into the cultural and social impact of style. Her insightful reviews and interviews are the perfect mix of inspirational and informative.