Redefining Darkness – Stefano Gallici’s Sophomore Stride at Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 24 by Leticia Dare

Dear Shaded Viewers,

In a Parisian setting illuminated by selective spotlights, Stefano Gallici unveiled his latest collection for Ann Demeulemeester, diving deeper into the brand’s iconic palette of dark romanticism and luxury. Taking the helm from Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Gallici showcased a mastery of the brand’s foundational elements – a mix of leather, silk, and an unerring sense of the poetic established by Ann Demeulemeester herself in 1985. The show, held in Paris’s fourth arrondissement, was a visual feast of the brand’s signature dark and anthracite tones, punctuated with bursts of burgundy and khaki. Standout pieces included an oversized maxi coat that whispered of opulent evenings in silky pajamas, meticulously tailored garments, and ethereal dresses that hinted at the contours beneath.

Leather reigned supreme in Gallici’s collection, reasserted as an enduring symbol of the male wardrobe while being ingeniously reimagined to push boundaries of craftsmanship and luxury. This was not just a nod to rock’n’roll icons but a reinterpretation of leather’s role in fashion, complete with BDSM-inspired accessories that paid homage to the brand’s rebellious spirit.

Gallici, reflecting on his journey and the immense legacy of Ann Demeulemeester, described his approach as navigating a “mindscape” of the brand’s archives, blending historical influences with his own innovative twists. The collection ventured into new territories with leather and lace, structured outerwear, and a visible shift towards a more angsty, perhaps raw, emotional tone, diverging from the brand’s traditional melancholic romance.

Despite the evident departure in mood, Gallici’s work remained faithful to the brand’s ethos, embodying a freedom and ambiguity in dressing that challenges and transcends conventional boundaries. His narrative is one of exploration and authenticity, of delving into the “forest” of the brand’s rich archives to emerge with a vision both raw and refined, a testament to his personal journey through fashion.

Stefano Gallici, a creative force with roots in the indie and punk rock scene, has woven his diverse influences into the fabric of Ann Demeulemeester. His trajectory from a curious teenager in Teor, learning the basics of sewing, to leading a venerable fashion house in Milan speaks to a profound connection with fashion as a form of expression. Under his direction, Ann Demeulemeester evolves, blending musicality with aesthetic precision, crafting a narrative that is both a tribute and a bold step forward.

Later,

Leticia Dare