PFW SS’24 Deep Blue Desires: Cadwallader’s Oceanic Odyssey at Mugler by Leticia Dare


Dear Shaded Viewers,


Nestled beneath the grandeur of the Musée du Louvre, the illustrious Les Salles du Carrousel was transformed into a subaqueous haven by Mugler’s very own Casey Cadwallader. Taking us on an epic dive, the Spring Summer 2024 collection mirrored an oceanic rhapsody – as intoxicatingly mesmeric as the enigmatic creatures lurking in the deep.

Cadwallader, a sailor by heart and nature enthusiast at core, poured forth his aquatic allure onto the runway. Inspired by marine wonders – the opulence of the octopus, the iridescence of the jellyfish, and the intrigue of the nudibranch – the garments draped, flowed, and pulsated with life.

Giant industrial fans above conjured an ethereal underwater realm, making the fabrics dance with the poetic grace of marine flora. The choreography of chiffon, fluid jersey, and resin-like elements painted a vivid tableau reminiscent of undulating waves and the caress of currents.

Sinuous exoskeletons, reminiscent of oceanic creatures, were seamlessly integrated with soft fabrics, creating a tantalizing interplay of structure and fluidity. In a nod to Mugler’s historical Zenith handbag, Cadwallader unveiled a reinvention, flaunting his prowess in architectural design.

The veritable deep dive into the Mugler archives yielded breathtaking outcomes. Cadwallader’s audacious reimagination of past masterpieces – from the radical fringed ensembles of SS97 to the sculpted tailoring of SS99 – was nothing short of remarkable. His interpretation bristled with fresh vigour while retaining Mugler’s time-honoured DNA.

Celestial beings like Helena Christensen, Paris Hilton, and Angela Bassett graced the runway, breathing life into Cadwallader’s siren-like creations. Their commanding presence, coupled with the artistry of the collection, conjured a mesmerising aura that resonated with the audience.

The exquisite detailing, notably in the die-cut sequin ‘feather’ pumps and the acrylic nail-embroidered transparent knit tube dress, spoke of painstaking craftsmanship. These embellishments, requiring thousands of individual elements and hours of dedication, elevated the collection to a realm of opulence and sophistication.

Ending on a crescendo, the collection showcased perspex couture pieces reminiscent of the legendary Manfred Mugler. The ‘glass’ structured garments – body shields, corsets, and dramatic peplums – encapsulated the thrilling finale.

In this theatrical ode to marine wonder, Cadwallader navigated through Mugler’s storied past, forging a bridge to the present. By doing so, he offered a promising glimpse into the fashion house’s future, one where the interplay of nature and couture reigns supreme.




Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.