LFW SS’24 Pam Hogg’s ‘Apocalypse’ Collection: A Divine Reverie in Fashion’s Cathedral by Leticia Dare


Dear Shaded Viewers,


In a world where fashion often seeks refuge in the superficial, Pam Hogg’s “Apocalypse” collection at London Fashion Week emerges as a glorious exception—an enigmatic paean to the late Sinead O’Connor that transcends mere attire and delves deep into the visceral realm of artistry.

Hogg, an intrepid provocateur of style, unfurls her sartorial canvas with unapologetic audacity. ‘Apocalypse’ resonates with an arresting Catholic fervor, where words like ‘Redemption’ and ‘Judgment Day’ hang in the air, casting an incandescent glow of religious intrigue. Crucifixes, their symbolism both sacred and subversive, are etched into the fabric, evoking O’Connor’s indomitable crusade against the shadows lurking within the Catholic church.

But what sets this collection ablaze isn’t just the garments—it’s the profound narrative interwoven by Hogg’s reverence for Sinead O’Connor. On the canvas of Instagram, Hogg laid bare her heart, describing O’Connor as her “eternal muse.” The collection, titled ‘They Burn Witches, Don’t They,’ emerged as a sublime vessel through which O’Connor’s legacy is resurrected. Hogg’s urgency to birth it, despite the odds stacked against her, mirrors the tenacity of the artist she venerates—a modern-day saint who refused to be silenced.

The runway ignites with Hogg’s signature: skin-tight latex jumpsuits and disco-infused mini dresses that pulse with a rhythmic defiance. A palette dominated by white, red, and black conjures echoes of vintage nurses’ uniforms, their white hats now donning crimson crosses—a provocative juxtaposition that questions conformity.

The crescendo, however, arrives with an ethereal parade of gowns, cascading in candy-colored cascades—a dreamy tribute to the ever-evolving spirit of Sinead O’Connor.

The front row is an assemblage of creative luminaries, including British artist Tracey Emin, the esteemed costume designer Sandy Powell, and Andreas Kronthaler, the widower of the iconic Vivienne Westwood. Together, they bear witness to Pam Hogg’s ‘Apocalypse,’ an opus that seamlessly melds fashion and reverence, beckoning us to delve deeper, question the norms, and celebrate the unyielding spirit of a woman who dared to burn like a modern-day Joan of Arc.




Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.