LFW Mowalola SS24: A Provocative Ode to ‘Crash’ Culture by Leticia Dare


Dear Shaded Viewers,


Mowalola Ogunlesi returned to the London Fashion Week stage with her Spring/Summer 2024 collection, provocatively christened “Crash.” In a front row adorned by the presence of the enigmatic Ye (formerly Kanye West) and his partner, Bianca Censori, the stage was set for a bold and audacious runway spectacle.

The show opened with Irina Shayk confidently striding down the runway in a metallic silver halter dress boldly emblazoned with “MOWALOLA L.D.N.,” a direct nod to the iconic Everlast boxing aesthetic. Right from the start, it was clear that Mowalola was embracing the notion that beauty often arises from the crucible of pain.

This season, Mowalola artfully wove together deliberately distressed garments, NSFW graphic tees, micro mini skirts, and the most daring of undergarments, challenging the very essence of traditional fashion. In this pursuit, she pushed boundaries with a ferocity that rivaled even Rick Owens’ celebrated provocations.

In a move that was as unorthodox as it was bold, Mowalola chose a location near London City Airport for her Friday-night show, directly conflicting with the adored Chopova Lowena. This unconventional choice only added to the intrigue and anticipation surrounding the event.

The spark of inspiration for “Crash” was ignited by Ogunlesi’s first viewing of David Cronenberg’s iconic film bearing the same name. She spoke passionately about her fascination with the film’s fetishization of pain and how it motivated her to create a universe that thrived on the thrill of living on the edge of society’s boundaries.

The collection featured off-the-shoulder bombers adorned with faux Highway Patrol patches and pants that bore influences from the likes of Glenn Martens and McQueen, yet retained their unique Mowalola essence. The gartered, bisected pants and skirts, a signature Mowalola motif, stood as testament to her distinctive creative vision.

Models donned makeup that expertly simulated the appearance of livid bruises and extreme scars, symbolizing Ogunlesi’s journey as a fledgling designer navigating the tumultuous world of fashion.

Mowalola’s “Crash” collection dared to embrace twin looks, explore Umbro bootlegs, and celebrate a global theme that resonated deeply. Voluminous sportswear pieces introduced captivating contrasts, while trench coats fearlessly challenged convention with high cuts at the rear.

In the true spirit of Mowalola’s artistry, this collection epitomized the audacious intersection of fashion and danger, offering an evocative and unforgettable journey into a world where the two collide with breathtaking results.




Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.