The Institute Français De La Mode is the third ranking fashion school of the world, whose prestigiously accomplished Bachelor degree graduates opened this Summer/Spring Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. Founded by Pierre Bergé, lover and business partner of Yves Saint Laurent, it’s no surprise that IFM’s apples don’t fall far from the tree of their elite origins. As to be expected, the 38 collections presented from the top of IFM’s Bachelor degree class were nothing less than spectacular, but I think this level of mastery across material and medium, from head to toe, might be something unique to this generation of designers desperate to stand out in an over saturated industry. Today, I think their years of focus and hard work paid off.
From knitwear in all shapes and forms to vinyl to latex to leather to plisse, elaborate wood sculpture, plastic molding, body casting, manipulated balloons, bamboo, feathers, you name it- each collection was its own comprehensive universe exhibiting mastery of a multitude of techniques and remarkably executed vision. Some stand out looks included a trompe l’œil latex bodysuit, a topless fishtail dress made entirely of hair with nipple tassels to match, a bulbous skirt overlay constructed from strips of bamboo, a fleshy plastic jacket with teeth on its front panels, a pastel felted corset with animal bone clasps, and many more. If we weren’t sure before- it’s official and straight out the mouths of babes- Dada is back, and maybe a little on the nose.
Alongside beautiful tailoring of all shapes and sizes, and in all materials one could dream to make a garment out of, props were enthusiastically incorporated! Suitcases were dragged down the runway, stuffed animals and dolls swayed back and forth off model’s wrists, some held books, records, canvases with photos of purses on them, plastic bags with records inside, pieces of crown-mounding, large wooden slabs, balloon animals, an landline, and the list goes on. Exaggeration, maximalism, and surrealism were present in nearly every collection- if not every look. This combined with the astounding exhibition of technical skill left me wishing some looks had more confidence in their construction and left out the extra set of headphones, left the shoes un-spray painted, or left the serving tray at home. I leave thinking about how meta and maddening it is to try and have a unique voice and image when everyone on the planet has a platform to express themselves. Walking out of the show I saw a man with a white t-shirt and a white eye patch walking down the street and for a second I thought it was a look. That being said, I also left feeling excited for my generation, and energized by the abundant display of talent. How exciting it will be to see what these young designers have in store- there are certainly some stars amongst them.
If you missed the live-stream of the show, fret not! The full show will soon be available to watch at https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D8RjqtlZcYI&fbclid=PAAaYuKdnotCw2Zaa-wm8J87tqllLTEeEjti39WuwmtFzzuvCXm0g2fmoYWVU_aem_th_ASFXuYouv9pLvSKIjXNSbK9Dz2mak5Mza9wvR0um4tHXfFYGbd84YXyhZwfKv5VZQpE
Lastly, let’s take a little moment of appreciation for the shoes. (Or, lack thereof!)
