Dear Shaded Viewers,
Anthony Vaccarello presented his highly anticipated Saint Laurent Men’s Spring 2024 collection to a select audience of 200 guests in the vibrant city of Berlin. With monumental shoulders pinned on slender, high-waisted pants that dared to strangle the hips of his young models, Vaccarello presented his vision for Men’s Summer 24. Oversized shoulders, a bit reminiscent of Demna at Balenciaga but more squared off, were paired with high-heeled boots with long slim pointy toes .
It is no surprise that Vaccarello chose Berlin as the backdrop for his Spring show. The city holds a special place in his heart, as he explained, “it’s a city that I’ve always loved and I used to hang out here a lot when I was young.” This emotional connection added depth to the presentation, amplifying the collection’s resonance.
Vaccarello’s appreciation for Rainer Werner Fassbinder films was evident throughout the runway show, culminating in the collection’s title: “Each man kills the thing he loves,” a poignant line plucked from Jeanne Moreau’s haunting song in the film “Querelle.” This nod to Fassbinder’s work showcased Vaccarello’s keen understanding of cinematic influences and their ability to translate into fashion. One only had to look at his last campaign with images, I might add, of my favourite film directors. The scoop-necked tank tops were a flash back to those worn by Brad Davis in the same film.
In continuing the love affair with Berlin that began with his predecessor at Saint Laurent, Vaccarello solidified his own connection to the city.
And now for a little past history on Saint Laurent’s designer, Anthony Vaccarello, with an archival interview for JOYCE’s 40th Anniversary back in 2010.
