The starting point of the collection was the word “CHAIN”. Throughout the process, this concept was collectively reinterpreted and developed. Initial silhouette proposals were created through drapings that were made with deadstock workwear provided by HAVEP. By reconstructing contemporary workwear, a storyline arose which sees all models as individual characters, breaking free from the chain of command. The models and garments exist in different stages of the process of reclaiming their individuality, identity and freedom. The workwear itself, which embodies repetition and anonymity within a larger system, expands and transforms throughout the collection. This is supplemented with historical techniques such as smocking and knitting, which reference ideas of interconnectedness and chain reactions. Exaggerated silhouettes move from thin and elongated to enlarged and voluminous, in varying degrees of bodily restriction.
Reflective silver stripes, bright blue and neon yellow fabrics sparkle between oppressive blacks and greys, while pink and beige tones soften. Recycled twill cotton, metal constructions and heavy patchwork complement delicate mesh and sculptural knitwear made of deadstock yarns. Finishings like a double topstitch in contrasting colours and raw edges are copied from workwear garments referenced during research. Accessories like metal shoes, handbags and earplugs were developed in collaboration with Product Design students.
This film tells the story of workers breaking free from the chain of command. To represent this concept, the set design consists of a maze inside an industrial warehouse. Mirroring and multiplication in shadows are used to illustrate the magnitude of masses and repetition. The models start out walking in a robotic fashion, and get more free and individualistic throughout — representing their journey to self-actualisation and finding liberation collectively.’
– ArtEZ’s Collectie Arnhem 2023
Watch the full video here!
COLLECTIE ARNHEM – @collectiearnhem
Photos @lkostenko_ & @madelief_louise
Video © Courtesy of Pr