Junya Watanabe Defines the New Romantic at Spring23 – by Aybuke Barkcin

Junya Watanabe made a bold return to Paris.

From the roaring songs of Duran Duran’s biggest hits to the otherworldly models, the dramatic and rebellious attitude of the 80s British New Romantic Movement served as the backbone for the spring summer23 collection.

Exaggerated hair and glam-rock makeup, fused with Watanabe’s de-constructivists designs created a new set of aesthetic codes for the modern punk. 80s tailored power shoulders were styled with skinny neon tights, pleated long shirts were transformed into barbershop capes, tartan dresses were draped along the shape of the body.

For a touch of glamour, strings of pearls were clustered around to hold the dresses in place, while an oversized motorcycle jacket was interpreted with a tulle skirt at the end, juxtapositioning the toughness of the leather with the flimsy aura of tulle.

Watanabe’s experimentative approach that blends different aesthetics and time periods, continues to bring new products to the table and this collection was no exception to innovation. Everything was pushed to the limit, there was an outburst of silhouettes, each individually unique and eccentric. Bold and loud was the message of the season.


Aybuke Barkcin

Aybüke Barkçin is an art director, photographer, curator and writer that looks at fashion through the lens of political and societal dynamics. She completed her master's Creative Direction in POLIMODA, Italy and has a background in International Relations and Graphic Design. Her work can be found in her website: https://www.aybukebarkcin.com/