Eva Cho Minju
Xindi Zhou
Emil Dernbach
Alice Morell-Evans
Eva Cho Minju
Alice Wiggin
Mata Durikovic
Paolo Guarino
Tobias Howard
Dongjie Zhang
Alice Wiggin
Stanley Bryan
Golrokh Broumandi
Photo: Andrew Gilbert
Stanley Bryan
Photo: Andrew Gilbert
Flora Xu
Photo: Andrew Gilbert
Maximilian Raynor
Photo: Andrew Gilbert
Eva Cho Minju
Photo: Andrew Gilbert
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Dear Shaded Viewers,
115 student collections, Madonna and FKA Twigs sitting front row, the CSM show was uplifting and a roaring success.
A selection of the collections is above.
‘Is it a generational rebellion against two years of flat-screen teaching that made a vast number of students want to occupy life in the round? Varieties of 3-D shapes kept coming: huge hoods and horizontal four-foot wide head-dresses, kites, spiraling cages, cylinders, panniers, hoops, and wadded, padded and pointy structures made out of everything from crochet to plaster to bioplastic. Together, they sent fashion’s commonplace concept of ‘oversize’ into a whole different dimension.
‘If Central Saint Martins is famous for one thing, it’s teaching self-expression and individualism—it’s been doing that since John Galliano graduated from the school with his Les Incroyables collection in 1984. Only now, youthful imaginations seem to be informed by the worlds of gaming, mysticism, and medievalism—spaces which include celebrating disabled people, senior heroes, spiritual icons, shamans, druids, and the magic of fertility, pregnancy, and motherhood. It made for a kind and joyful atmosphere—something deeper than surface performativity.
‘There have been years when the students of CSM have put forth inescapably dystopian visions. This was definitely not one of them. Instead, this cohort seems united as a group who make solutions, who’ve prevailed through vulnerability and tough times, depending only on their own inventiveness, paths of self-discovery, and the friendships they made at college. After almost an hour watching this parade of talent go by, the audience still lingered, congratulating students and CSM’s teachers alike for pulling off such a transformative vision of promise for the future.’
Sarah Mower, British Vogue
Later,
Diane
