Dear Shaded Viewers,
After 3 seasons of digital presentations due to Covid restrictions, this year at NYFW, many designers returned to the physical runway, presenting their visions on what we will be wearing for the next spring and summer. The much anticipated event made its closing with the Met Gala, celebrating American Fashion.
Here are some of the highlights from NYFW…
If you would have told me a week ago that Gigi Hadid would be walking down the runway with a baby’s bottle in her hand, I would have said ‘No Way!’ But there are no limits in the world of Moschino, especially when it comes to humour. For the spring/summer 22, Jeremy Scott envisioned ladies who went to lunch in cropped jackets, mini skirts, trench coats… decorated with cute elephants, cats and giraffe prints. “Baby ladies” as Scott described, all dressed up and ready to take over the world in a children’s dreamworld. Alphabet toys as necklaces, baby bottles as clutches, cartoon animals for buttons… If this was a collection to uplift the moods, it was a little too much optimism for me.
Peter Do, the Vietnamese-American designer who has gained a large following since establishing his brand in 2018, made his debut on the runway with a hand-written note welcoming people to his home. The collection featured Do’s signature minimalist essence with the four-piece suit, pleated skirts, trench coats, fitted light dresses and oversized bags. A feeling of excitement was present in the soft lilac suit ensemble which was decorated with clear teardrop accessories while coats and suits were covered in different shades of carnations… a sweet spot was found that made minimalism intriguing. The impeccable tailoring was an invitation back to work with more style, optimism and elegance.
As for Eckhaus Latta, the one word to describe the collection would be freedom. Spontaneous cut-outs on shirts, knits and dresses reminded me the story of stylist Melanie Ward, instinctively cutting garments before the models hit the Helmut Lang runway in the 90s. Soft stripes revealing breasts, black tongs peaking under deep slit dresses, slim white pants with oval slices… This was an intimate and erotic conversation with the body, exposing bits while hiding others.
For Tom Ford, Instagram is impacting our lives more than ever and with social media, one cannot forget the demand for photogenic clothes. Though there were no gowns for A-List models to grace the runway this season, the impact of the colours and textures did their fair share of catching everyone’s attention. “Photogenic clothes today by their very nature mean that they are not at all timid… My clothes this season are simple in cut but not in impact.” the designer expressed in the show notes. The silhouettes were simplified, signalling glamorous athleisure as basketball shorts, track pants, tank-tops were covered in bright metallic colours and sequins. Each look felt like something Jennifer Lopez would wear to her next music video… and if she does, I am sure Instagram-ers would be ready to repost the images until they fall into our algorithms.
Another vibrant show which uplifted the moods of the viewers, came from the designer duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, who reminded all of us the joy of travelling again… a break we all need after months of lockdown. Naming their collection “Little Island”, the creative directors reflected on their trip to Kauai, presenting an uplifting season filled with light summer dresses, bright colours, scuba fabrics and layered fringes. Even the more rigid silhouettes like the suits were styled with bicycle shorts, relaxed in formality.