Iris Van Herpen – Earthrise A/H 2021 – 2022 directed by Masha Vasyukova photos by Fee-Gloria Gronemeyer

Dear Shaded Viewers,

The worlds of Haute Couture and Skydiving merge together in ‘Earthrise’ which uses our living and breathing planet as its background and knits the two opposite worlds together as one. Who hasn’t dreamed of the ‘lightness of being’ and just flying out into the stratosphere? For ‘Earthrise’ van Herpen collaborated with the champion skydiver Domitille Kiger and her choreographed performance of her craft fusing the worlds of science with artistry. ‘For ‘Earthrise’ it has been my dare to push delicate three-dimensional craftsmanship into the extreme spheres of 300 km an hour resilience-finding the ultimate corners of durability in the craftsmanship of Haute Couture.’ said van Herpen. Haute Couture and skydiving alike relinquish the thrill of leaving aside everything that holds one to the ground. The intimate creative process and the meticulous precise shaping and draping of fabric are imperative to both; for Kiger, the lifeline for each skydive, for Iris van Herpen the shaping of a garment into an empowering experience.

Other collaborations this season are with the Icelandic artist James Merry, the kinetic artist Casey Curran and French-British artist Rogan Brown. Spanning three looks in the collection, the atelier seamlessly weaves in Brown’s distinctive aesthetic which is inspired by the tradition of scientific illustration and results in incredibly detailed, delicate relief sculptures made from the accretion of multiple layers. Akin to the designer’s vision, process and materiality are paramount as large hand and laser-cut pieces are dissected from sheet after sheet of paper in careful scientific fashion with scalpel knife or laser, sometimes taking months to complete, the slow act of cutting repeating the long time-based processes that dominate nature: growth, decay and re-growth. The meticulous detailing goes beyond the eye’s perception, where fabric is torn and expanded in multiple directions simultaneously through powerful force. The fabric’s evolution from plant, to weave, to plant again is mirrored in the various stages in these looks.

Evgueni Galperine’s composition evokes a transcending unison of space and time in which the skydiver travels. Igniting Tsunaina’s intimate then explosive vocals, Evgueni’s collaboration with the artist creates an invisible bond between the score and the visuals. An experimental hybrid of electronic and orchestral instruments, as well as planetary NASA recordings rippling through the composition, are melted with Tsunaina’s vocals, forming a collective oneness between mankind and nature.

As a continuation of van Herpen’s dedication to sustainability, ‘Earthrise’ marks a further chapter with Parley for the Oceans. Raising awareness of the fragility of our blue marble, multiple looks, in addition to the ones created in collaboration with Brown and the Skydive gown for Kiger, are crafted from Parley Ocean Plastic® made from upcycled marine debris by Parley’s Global Cleanup Network.

Levitating against the clouds that encircle the dramatic natural cathedrals of nature’s Kingdom — the Dolomite Mountains — Film Director Masha Vasyukova challenges the inherent discernment of space and time by sequencing the linearity of time into a circular orbit. A portent portrayal of earthly virtue that ascents into a celestial scenery beyond the skies, the interconnected craftsmanship and layered anatomy of the looks pay homage to the anima mundi, the world as one living body. The magnificent environment around us nurturing an intrinsic connection between all living things on the planet, similar to the way the soul is connected to our bodies.

Film Director: Masha Vasyukova | Art + Commerce Director of Photography: Simon Plunket
Special Collaborating Artists: Casey Curran & Rogan Brown Print Collaboration: Olga Shvartsur
Skydiver: Domitille Kiger
Styling: Patti Wilson
Casting: Maxime Valentini & Tobias Heinrichs Original Soundtrack: “Oumuamua, Space Wanderings” (Remix) Music composed & performed by: Evgueni Galperine Supporting Vocals: Tsunaina







Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.