Three thoughts come to my mind as I go through the new Rodarte collection. I will develop them bellow:
I would like to rescue the most creative element on the collection; probably the most beautiful or at least, most exciting is the veils. There is a tension between beauty, romanticism, kitsch and winked darkness. All key elements in the vocabulary of Rodarte. The materials have always been exquisitely chosen and really carry the weight of expectation for the collections from some years ago.
The fact that some of their famous “commercial” streetwear appears in the collection feels truly authentic from them. It’s amazing how easily the jersey pieces merge in the middle of evening wear and silky satined looks.
My heart aches as I remember more inspiring days that the Rodarte sisters gave us. I think Spring Summer 2012, the Van Gogh Collection was the last time Rodarte felt like Rodarte to me. I remember Laura Mulleavy stated once that; “It felt like Fall 2008, the Japanese Horror Film inspired collection, felt like the first time they truly found her voice as fashion designers”. I couldn’t agree more, and I think the whole world was fascinated by the very conceptual yet almost naive collections. Their latest work tries hard to serve commercial or business ideas, which I wonder if even really works.
Daria Kobayashi Ritch
GIF SCREEN SHOT: