Dear Shaded Viewers,
Ann Demeulemeester retired from designing her namesake label in 2013 after starting her company in 1986. She handed the reins over to Sebastien Meunier, who spent a decade at Martin Margiela. Meunier is a comfortable fit with Demeulemeester, still seamlessly channeling Ann Demeulemeester’s design DNA.
Although the fall 2020 collection, shown at Palais Challiot on Friday, was textbook Demeulemeester, it still had relevancy and a few eye-openers.
First, it was the infusion of blood red, Kelly green, and mustard, after a long series of black garments were sent down the runway. Kelly green took its place in the form of a velvet vest and coat, looking more like English tailoring.
We liked the simple but striking accessories of polished silver strips adorning the waist and also on the shoulders. They were also under the bust to accentuate the Umpire waistline. There were head pieces made with the same materials, made to resemble reindeer antlers, some with feathers attached.
Square-toed half boots, tight around the ankle, were sexy and we adored the ones that had that had a hole in the wedge.
One of the last creations, an Umpire waisted, red velvet, Guinevere-style gown with ruffles on the shoulders, had the gasp moment of the show, with panels of gray silk alternating with the red velvet.
Later,
Richard Nahem
