Dear Shaded Viewers,
I’d like to talk about the Italian New Wave of Fashion that keep supporting Milan Fashion Week as a growing talent hub despite all the disputes around it I still believe there is room for creativity here. Amongst my favorites I cannot miss mentioning Marco De Vincenzo, whose work has always been striking to me since the early beginnings in Rome during AltaRoma or Gabriele Colangelo, a dear friend whose style continues to inspire me season after season. Aside from these known brands I share with you the bondage like and sculptural work of Theodora Bak, created by Roman born Maria Federica Bacchiddu and the Constructivists’ rigorous style of Giuseppe Buccinnà, a former Carol Christian Poell assistant, who showcased his second collection in Milan and Paris. Last but not least I suggest you to keep Act n°1 under the radar, the Italian-Georgian duo knows a thing or two about what a refined fashion lover would aspire to wear right now.
MARCO DE VINCENZO
Dominated by Emerald green, purple, pink, black, orange and olive (a color everybody seems to love right now), Marco’s collection payed homage to the 60’,using a seaside image that reminds me of the Riviera as a photo print on a blouse and as a strong reference for the jacquard coat. Satin fringes and little flowers embroideries, flying birds and a color burst on all looks with a majestic take on pink with a pair of pleated and ruffled silk pants. Sequined dresses go with straps made of the typical fabric used for men’s ties. The play of layers on layers is also materic: lacquered lace over thin cut outs knits. As result it is a daring and fresh collection for a woman that exudes class and has a fun approach to elegance. Never boring.
Very Japanese. That was the immediate impressions. A series of plongé napa leather dresses, mid-calf length skirts, woven tops with dangling strips and floral embroideries inspired by the work of Dianna Molzan specialized in abstract painting. Long sleeves shirts and sheer silk dresses were nothing but eye-catching. The key word is deconstruction, with dresses, coats and jackets that are cleverly cut into slices of fabric that give movement when you move and break the severity of the shapes.
From the coat to total look. The coat is disassembled and it becomes a bomber jacket, in linen or turn itself into a leather dress forging the uniform of a contemporary warrior.
The designer Federica Bacchiddu looked at the work of costume designers, and took ideas from bondage and fetish worlds for her accessory designs. The collection has a sartorial flair, totally Made in Italy and an expression of rare craftmanship. Raw materials such as leather and linen are put in contrasts to underline the genderless spirit of the collection. The name of the brand keeps making me think of a modern Joan of Arch.
It is another example of how women wants to dress nowadays, Not too much conceptual, very artisanal, multicultural and contemporary. Act n1’s first aim is to tell a story to its customers. The brand existence and image is about its creators’ biography, multicultural background and is focused on their childhood, lifestyle, their homes, antique Chinese fine art. Collections are full of naive memories, prints, embroideries and handmade materials. Patched and layered outerwear, while the jacket structure is transformed into dresses- with strong use of traditional Italian tailoring, fabrics that are fringed like a carpet, motives of children drawings are gathered into prints. This new exciting label is founded by Luca Lin (from Italy) and Galib Gasanov (from Georgia) in early 2016 in Reggio Emilia, Italy.
A selection of natural and raw fabrics with a linear and minimal color palette. A union between volumes in transparency, with the use of reversed sides of fabrics, asymmetric blazers where panels of fabrics and sections that show your body, alternate themselves giving the rythm to the entire collection. Giuseppe Buccinnà is an Italian fashion designer from Milan. Holding a degree in Civil Engineering from Politecnico di Milano and a diploma in pattern-making from Istituto Secoli, his work tends to harbour both educations by combining strictly technical elements with more harmonious and couture-like shapes, aiming for a deeper connection between fabric, styling and wearability. The attraction for abandoned structures as well as the fascination for Eastern cultures, psychology, music and painting also play a crucial role in the development of his ideas.