Dear Shaded Viewers,
I went to see the preview of this new exhibition at "LA TRIENNALE" in Milan. This one of a kind exhibition called "THE NEW VOCABULARY OF ITALIAN FASHION" was created out of the need to recognize and celebrate the current Italian fashion world and its major players: brands and creative minds that have over the past 20 years have renewed and recovered the industry’s traditional cultural, technical and technological DNA, rewriting it in a language that is completely original. The New Vocabulary of Italian Fashion, curated by Paola Bertola and Vittorio Linfante, analyses this language and the current nature of Italian fashion from ready-to-wear and streetwear to footwear, eyewear, jewellery and millinery, dubbing it an original vocabulary of style and productivity. The exhibition accurately presents the arrival and expansion of the “Made in Italy” brand's recent history since 1998, the year that marks the concrete transition to a world interconnected by the web and new forms of communication. Over 100 of the most important companies on the contemporary scene will contribute their products and projects to the exhibition. Designers and brands were selected following a scientific-educational approach using a system of analytical phases by curators Paola Bertola and Vittorio Linfante, together with the exhibition's Scientific Committee (chaired by Eleonora Fiorani and composed of Silvana Annicchiarico, Gianluca Bauzano, Federico Poletti, Patrizia Calefato, Enrica Morini, Domenico Quaranta and Salvo Testa), with the help of a large group of advisors, experts in the world of fashion (communicators, designers, journalists, producers, distributors, etc.). Why “vocabulary”? To summarize, explain and define the fundamental characteristics of modern Made in Italy products which are still in the process of being written and developed. “Vocabulary,” therefore, defined as a “repertoire of terms and phrases,” is the means through which to explain and clarify the new language of the Made in Italy label.
Enhancing the design concept of the garments and accessories presented, as well as strongly expressing the concept of “vocabulary,” the exhibition employs a pathway composed of key words that summarize a typical concept renewed by Made in Italy products.For example: Material, Construction, Adornment, Detail, Workshop… each characterized by installations that illustrate the product and its creative process, from the pattern to the trials of working components to the final product.
The exhibition is divided into three main sections:
Vocabulary: Products organized around key concepts that represent the different design approaches which contextualize the archetypal elements of Italian products.
Narratives: An outline of the system of cultural production and communication revolving around fashion: photography, illustration, new media, publishing and video-art.
Biographies: A focus on narrative stories of individual designers and brands who have created the new language of Made in Italy fashion.
Here are a few of them that I have followed throughout the years: A-Lab Milano, Andrea Incontri, Andrea Pompilio, Arthur Arbesser, Sylvio Giardina, Caterina Gatta, Charline de Luca, CO|TE, Come For Breakfast, Flavialarocca, Francesco Ballestrazzi, Gabriele Colangelo, Giannico, Giuseppe di Morabito, L'f Shoes, Marianna Cimini, MSGM, Superduperhats, Fausto Puglisi, Gabriele Colangelo, Marco de Vincenzo, Aquilano.Rimondi, Gentucca Bini, Paula Cademartori, Elena Ghisellini, Marco De Vincenzo, Max Kibardin, Stella Jean, Sansovino 6, Leit Motiv, Giancarlo Petriglia, Ilaria Nistri e Giuliana Mancinelli Bonaccia, just to name a few.
For the duration of “The New Vocabulary of Italian Fashion,” closing on March 6, the Triennale Design Museum will organize specific initiatives, including an event about Elio Fiorucci as well as an event on knitwear and meetings with editors and designers.
Go and see it!
From the pink shoes with studs Max Kibardin, then Giannico Shoes, Giancarlo Petriglia's bag and the beautiful images of photographer and director Paolo Santambrogio.