Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
Who wants their swimwear baggy and saggy? I ask myself as I read the press notes ahead of the MM6 Maison Margiela show. Afterwards, I do. It’s worn over oversize tie-dyed tops in washed-out fades of olive, and crafted from old t-shirts, the ones with hyperreal prints of eagles, horses, and howling wolves on a full moon background you’ve bought at festivals before you knew better. For their debut on the London schedule on a suspiciously sunny day, clad in signature lab coats that stand out prettily in dusty Shoreditch, the MM6 crew showcase a collection that feels much more like summer than most summer collections we’ve seen so far. At enough of a distance from its mother-line in Paris, MM6 forgoes both its honed sang-froid and the pragmatism that often seeps in in New York. It enters a London club, meets John Galliano, comes out drenched in sequins. The brand’s trademark value of re-appropriation of course remains, but it’s expanded upon – it becomes more unfiltered, lived-in with a DIY vibe. The idea of amplified youth culture is said to inspire the season, and indeed, it translates in more than tees: roomy jeans puddle over chubby glittery flatforms, and bumbags, also glittery, are big enough to serve as convenient strapless tops. Youth’s beloved staples are thrifted and tweaked. There’s knitwear in knots, creased metallics, plus heavy duty bin bags, the kind one needs to let go of the past, refashioned into a ruffled blouse, a jumbo bow, breeches in either white or blue. Clear plastic shoulder bags allow the audience a peek at their contents: nail polish, cigarettes, fruits. Everyone shines with courage and candour.