Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,
Only one day after his runway show during Pitti Uomo, Austrian designer Arthur Arbesser was named the new head of womenswear at Iceberg. Not bad for someone who only launched his brand 2 years ago. That’s not to say he lacks experience – he has of course worked for over 7 years at Armani and was educated at Central Saint Martins, and when you look at his Spring 2016 collection, you can see his sophisticated aesthetic. Inspired by 70s geometry and 80s gender politics, the presentation was architectural and androgynous. Assumedly because of the mix of menswear and womenswear, style.com named it a resort collection, though it was exactly this gender fluidity, or irrelevance even – especially in the context of Pitti Uomo – that provided the clearest message. If I may go off his excellent offering last season, I still think Arbesser’s talent came through stronger in winter. In saying that, this season didn’t disappoint in the slightest. Also, who knew knee-highs were cool?
(Images courtesy of the designer)