Dear Shaded Viewers,
With his third collection presented in Paris this week, it was great to see designer Glenn Martens ease into his new role as artistic director for the French house. The Y/Project woman has key contradictions defining her psyche: cerebral and physical at the same time, she enjoys sportswear-inspired clothes as well as more precise cuts, balancing graphic shapes with looser volumes. Martens combined man-made fabrics with traditional menswear materials, such as leather, wool felt or Harris tweed. His velvet pieces were sleek and timeless, from full-length coat dresses to pristine shirts with billowy sleeves. A tweed bustier seemed to epitomize the spirit of the whole collection, mixing the intricacy of tailoring with a hint of sexual frisson.