Christopher Raeburn womenswear, spring 2015 – by Silvia Bombardini

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

Normcore might well be history by now, but if there's something we've learnt from this late '13-early '14 Brooklynite whim is that, Teva sandals? They're hot. And if LFW attendees have yet to dare past the odd pair of New Balance sneakers, we've surely seen, to our inward delight, a resurgence of the comfortable shoe, with less ladies switching their footwear on their way to the tube and many such sandals walking the catwalks indeed. Of course, when a Christopher Raeburn model wears them, a very different meaning is swiftly implied – they're no trend nor statement there, simply the most practical choice that's suddenly elegant too, to match the morals, beliefs and ideals that his clothes for five years now have come to set firmly in place. ASCENT, Raeburn's SS15 collection, has joined its menswear counterpart in the vast Arizona desert, where fields of decommissioned aircraft pepper the landscape like modern ruins. Focused on memories of flight, potential and lightness, his work evokes some dormant power, sleepy strength, layered and oversized. Quilted outerwear is printed with the swirling motives of meteorological maps, while distressed cotton in dusty whites pays homage to the charms of erosion, of the romantically outmoded. And Raeburn has a way to make sheer organza, a sensual seasonal must, appear almost inexplicably practical, with its iridescent patches of recycled yarn. Original MIG fighter pilot suits have morphed into stylish feminine separates, lined in bravery. The signature parachute pieces make their striking appearance in fresh blooming pink – an unexpected, vibrant tone that glides to the scenery like soft bubblegum clouds  as the desert tortoise, Raeburn's mascot for spring, slowly but surely finds its way through the dunes.

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