Craig Green, spring 2015 – text by Silvia Bombardini

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,


We'd been treated to bits and pieces of Craig Green before, of course we had, enough so to put us all a bit on tenterhooks this season as we waited for his first show very much on his own. The occasional flare of tie-dye from his previous spring collection had been brightening dreary London these past few months, spotted here and there in all the right locations. You would get close and murmur "Ah! Craig Green?" and they would smile the proud, pleased smile of those who had seen it coming. All the same, I dare say few were prepared for the level of poetry and confidence of this debut, of such candid clarity that it would be impossible not to see it now. Unlike most, Craig hasn't simply offered or imposed his vision but he gently guided us through it, season by season: by staying true to his style down to the very floating frames, the designer – who was once Walter van Beirendonck's intern – unexpectedly managed to deliver a commercially viable season at the same time. A great sense of inner equilibrium was conveyed. A customizable balance of freedom and restraint, in the form of the "flat-pack garment" to be fastened or loosened with ribbons, was where innovation met transcendence of an almost spiritual kind. That it was achieved via the fabrics of workwear – denim, jersey, industrial tarpaulin in a luminous forget-me-not shade – was a pointed, precious metaphor of its own.

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Photos by Christopher Dadey.