KTZ menswear, spring 2015 – text by Silvia Bombardini

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,


Let Paris keep its Hedi Boys, 'cause here in London we're being treated to real muscle down the runway, and it suits us just fine. Occasionally, as was the case for the KTZ show on Monday, the marvel of human strength itself becomes the real protagonist of the season –  freed from the notion of vanity that nowadays could at times undermine the sight, Marjan Pejoski takes us back to the very origins of athleticism, right down to Olympia, when muscles spontaneously glistened with respect, and were held in such praise as to be consistently carved in marble. Spartan temper and the grace of Athens: Ancient Greece from the textbook, was KTZ's comeback of choice for spring 2015. Through the lens of streetwear, we've seen pleated chiton skirts styled over Lycra running shorts, Theseus' labyrinth outlined on mesh or plastic, and busy fighting scenes, lifted from friezes and amphorae, embroidered in patterns on loose boxing gear. As for the charms, bloggers had to sit on their hands to stop themselves from grabbing one of those swinging sculpted pendants and make a run for it. Take the statuesque breastplates, the golden colliers, the neat, sleek leather helmets, we'll certainly get to see plenty of KTZ in the editorials of months to come. And as the show progressed, things just got shiner: scales, sequins, glossy black lacquer, and towards the end even flashes of blaze orange, alarmingly bright.

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