Astrid Andersen, spring 2015 – text by Silvia Bombardini

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,


Here in the London scene, Astrid is known and loved for a certainly ambitious, curiously specific quest of her very own: by softening the edges of masculinity, there where it's known to be found at its most fierce, she seeks to expose the vulnerable, delicate soul of the sportsman. Astrid designs for the team and for the pack, and her work vaguely recalls the subtle dance of a sociological exercise, questioning notions of authority and muscle, of admiration, solidarity and tears, but from the uncanny point of view of a (female) outsider, striving not to upset the status quo. Through caresses of plush velvet and the insistent, clinging presence of lace, the Astrid Andersen man achieves a new balance, an equilibrium of sensitivity and strength that her latest collection especially highlights. Coming from a winter season inspired by Thailand and the sets of Nicolas Winding Refn's "Only God Forgives", Astrid moves now to Japan, towards the impossible elegance of traditional Sumo wrestlers. The silky vanity of a kimono meets the functionality and symbolism of basketball gear, black belts tighten, oranges and magentas brighten, and a quasi-spiritual, cool composure comes to mitigate and soothe the flaming heart of the player.

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