best of london graduate fashion week – by sophie joy wright

Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers, 

London Graduate Fashion Week was excellent. Here are my favourite designers…

 

Colleen Leitch – Edinburgh College of Art

I saw this collection twice on the runway this week. The first time, I immediately knew it would be featured in this article. The second, I knew it would have to be first. Colleen presented an elegance with black that reminded me of the work of painter, Pierre Soulages. The runway lights bounced, glittered and sunk into the monochromatic gradient in a manner that was softly dramatic and quite moving.

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Rebecca Rimmer – UCLAN

A refreshing collection of caricatures and colour (colour!!!) meant this collection was also a standout. New silhouettes were invaded with kitsch that was a fun way to look at the interplay of two – and three-dimensionality in garments.

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Wai Keung Lam – Birmingham City University

This menswear collection was quietly thoughtful, particularly in construction where asymmetry and balance seemed to be the focus. Wrapping around a jacket collar and then billowing to the ground on either side, a blood red scarf was so well integrated into the garment that the word ‘accessory’ became redundant.

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Grace Weller – Bath Spa University

Lace used unconventionally seemed to be popular this year, which unfortunately meant that it quickly became conventional. Despite this, on the last day I saw Grace Weller’s collection of embroidered and lace garments that were just beautiful. The excess of sheer black and navy gauze scrunched in the hands of flat-shoed models was a perfectly messy offset to the brilliant workmanship.

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Rebecca Swann – Nottingham Trent University

A sort of soft armor, Rebecca’s collection used textile in surprising ways that didn’t take away from her relevant silhouettes and enthusing textures. 

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Emma Lawrie – Edinburgh College or Art

Emma managed to create a relaxed luxury in her knitwear collection that isn’t something I expected to see this week. Also as a general rule; when there’s little perspex people wearing bowler hats swishing around, it’s going to make my best-of list.

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Maxim Sokolov – Saint Petersburg State University of Technology and Design

As part of the international show, Maxim’s collection was an interesting new take on the femme fatale without losing sophistication nor mystery. 

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All photography by Henriette Ketilsson

 

Happy Thursday,

Sophie Joy

mm
Sophie Joy Wright

@sophiejoywright

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