Dear Shaded Viewers,
This morning, I had the extraordinary privilege of attending the press preview of “Stephen Jones: Chapeaux d’Artiste,” guided by the maestro himself. This immersive exhibition brilliantly illuminates Jones’s unparalleled genius in millinery, opening with a touching display of his origins – his birth announcement and baby pictures from Liverpool, adorably featuring him in a little sun hat. This personal touch sets the stage for a chronological exploration of his life and work.
A poignant installation showcases his father’s rugby caps juxtaposed with Jones’s artistic interpretation – a beautifully structured hat surrounded by vintage family photographs. This section highlights the period of 1936-37 when his sartorial journey began, influenced by his father’s career as a submarine engineer.
One of the most captivating spaces recreates the electric atmosphere of the 1980s New Romantic movement. Complete with disco lighting and club imagery, it showcases the avant-garde hats Jones created for iconic figures like Spandau Ballet and Boy George – his first celebrity clients. The exhibition then unfolds into a dazzling display of Jones’s work for haute couture. His collaborations with fashion luminaries are meticulously presented, including creations for Christian Dior (both menswear and womenswear), Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Comme des Garçons, Walter Van Beirendonck, and Louis Vuitton.
A fascinating anecdote reveals how Jones’s encounter with Jean Paul Gaultier, while wearing a fez and a three-piece suit, led to a fruitful collaboration. The exhibition recounts how Gaultier, impressed by Jones’s style, later commissioned him to create hats for his collection. In a touching tribute, Gaultier had models place their Jones-designed hats in a basket at the end of the show.
This exhibition particularly emphasizes Jones’s deep connection with Paris, French culture, and Parisian couture. With nearly 400 works on display, including over 170 hats and Jones’s personal archives, it offers an unprecedented look into his creative process. One room provides a unique glimpse into Jones’s inspirations and creative methods, featuring window displays that showcase the journey from concept to creation.
The exhibition highlights Jones’s long-standing relationships with leading Parisian houses, notably his nearly three-decade collaboration with Christian Dior, a testament to his vast knowledge and visionary approach to millinery. As visitors wind through the exhibition, they witness Jones’s remarkable versatility – from dressing pop icons like Boy George to creating elegant pieces for Lady Diana. His ability to seamlessly transition between avant-garde and classic designs is truly awe-inspiring.
The exhibition beautifully traces Jones’s journey from his British roots to his embrace of French culture and Parisian fashion. It’s a visual narrative of cultural fusion and artistic evolution. At the exit, a short filmed interview with Jones adds a personal touch to the experience. His fluency in French is particularly impressive, underscoring his deep connection to the Parisian fashion world.
Curated by Miren Arzalluz, director of the Palais Galliera, this exhibition is both beautiful and deeply moving. It’s a comprehensive celebration of Jones’s artistry and his significant impact on the world of fashion. A standout feature is Jones’s reinterpretation of pieces from the Palais Galliera’s collection. His reimagining of a Madame Grès turban is particularly enchanting, showcasing his ability to honor fashion history while infusing it with contemporary flair.
This exhibition is a must-visit for anyone interested in fashion, art, or cultural history. It offers a rare opportunity to immerse oneself in the world of a true fashion visionary.
Later,
Diane
#ExpoStephenJones
@pierrelaportecommunications
curator: ML Gutton
