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10am Friday, overheard as guests spill into the cramped, narrow runway at Junya Watanabe- “In the whole Palais de Tokyo, they found the absolute smallest room…”
This is of course, completely intentional and entirely effective. An atmosphere that is both painstakingly humble and totally exclusive- when these sensations meet, the dust settles into a coolness that makes it feel like it all means something.
This season, Watanabe brings us high performance Japanese sportswear sets in shades of fuchsia and lilac which sculpt the models’ every dip and curve. From heroin-chic-thin to 8 months pregnant- Watanabe’s muses become primed feminine canvases for his kaleidoscope of ornamentation and amalgamated approach to garment making. These athletic bases in funky colorways are accented by sculptural afros, color-blocked eyes and lips (courtesy of Isamaya), and then layered with dresses made of sequins, brocade, fringe leather, harnesses of pearls.. electrical circuits and metal piping! Composite gowns, outerwear and headpieces are worn like armour, and a street-style fantasy unfolds. Old-school hip-hop meets blingy opulence with a bold and brash punk-rock edge. Uptown-girl meets downtown-girl meets girl from outer space! A tweed jacket is layered atop an oversized black leather belt, skintight pink spandex leggings, red heeled boots.She fluffs her hair as she struts down the runway, checking her nails.
A sporty top is matched with a floor-length tulle skirt and silver breast plate shaped like a sun. Black patent pumps. Massive brimmed hats. Bra tops with protruding leather spikes, black lace gown trailing behind. Bedazzled ball cap secured tight. Classic beige trenches are reconstructed and sprinkled throughout. Can’t tell if she’s going to the races or grabbing the A train (probably both).
In Watanabe’s world, these contrasts read as uniquely retro-futuristic and make for a very effectively fun and fresh take on the contemporary city girl. Fashion as play and play as power, a sentiment at the heart of the Comme brands’ ethos, is on display at full-volume.
Spike Lee’s female protagonists come to mind alongside perhaps, Parker Posey in Party Girl– all set to the tune of Bikini Kill’s Rebel Girl –
“When she walks, the revolution’s coming. In her hips there’s revolution..That girl thinks she’s the queen of the neighborhood. I got news for you, she is!”
The only thing missing this season is a boombox on her shoulder. Radio Raheem, eat your heart out!
