I have spent countless hours rifling through the wardrobes of family and friends, always drawn to the sentimental familiarity of clothing that has lived another life. These hand-me-downs seem to hold an open-ended potential for re-imagination that off-the-rack garments rarely inspire. Spanish designer Paloma Lanna seems to share this sentiment, as the disciplined lines and silhouettes of inherited clothing formed the starting point for her FW26 collection, paired with the whimsical notion of a “prolonged adolescence.”
Presented in a sterile, office-like setting, the formal space was interrupted by a pastel blue, confetti-laden runway. The line-up marked a departure from the pared-back minimalism of previous seasons. Precise tailoring and clean-cut lines defined much of the collection, focusing on those “inherited” corporate garments Lanna cited as inspiration. But not forgetting the added layer of an extended youth, playfulness crept in through colour and styling, as bright hues broke through more muted tones and proportions shifted slightly, as if the clothes once belonged to someone else.
Sheer organza dresses and shirts appeared ruched and crinkled, while magnet-fastened bag straps looped around the neck and clipped onto garments to alter their drape. A lime-green cardigan peeked beneath a skewed, off-the-shoulder cable knit. A cropped, belted puffer exposed bare arms and midriff—remembering my own failed adult attempts to pull off pieces from a childhood wardrobe once shared with my sister. While my efforts were unsuccessful, Lanna’s was a triumph. Cropped knits ended at the forearms, revealing striped sleeves and unexpected colour pairings. A brown leather trench and matching boots met a burst of hot pink from a hood beneath, while dresses and skirts paired with capri leggings added a schoolyard irreverence.
Lightweight wool trousers—a Paloma Wool signature—came slim-fitting, pooling over round-toe heels or tucked into fur-trimmed boots. Embroidered florals danced across more hazy organza, while billowing skirts with thick waistbands brought a touch of joviality. Pea coats, nylon windbreakers, and fur-edged khaki trenches added a certain weight back into the collection’s whimsy.
Peeking from structured leather handbags were plush toy animals—cats, doves, monkeys, meerkats, and fennec foxes. A collaboration with artist Fumiko Imano, they served as soft little emblems of childhood comfort, talismans of safety in an often-daunting adult world. I thought of the tiny ceramic clownfish that has followed me from city to city—a gift from my mother, once hers as a child.
And then there were the bows: oversized nylon decorations wrapped around shoulders and tied across chests. Some in bright pink, others softer. They caressed the looks, some of which were more utilitarian, like toy soldiers wrapped up as gifts.
In a world where the professional environment feels inescapable, Paloma Wool FW26 reminded us that play can still exist within order. Lanna showed that beneath the codes of modern adulthood lies something tender, and that the thrill of dressing begins, always, with the child you once were.
