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As the rest of the city fights 5 o’clock traffic in the rain, we walk into yet another towering carpark filled with a mob of otherwise obscenely dressed pfw-goers. Billy and I take our seats which I had thought would be fabulous in the front row but instead we find ourselves in a seating area which I will lovingly refer to as second-tier-media-island. A place with a few spots of prime real estate but which is often marked by slightly obstructed view, lighting a tad worse, where seats are often double, triple assigned. But there is a particular warmth and camaraderie in sitting half on top of a stranger that probably has the same underpaid job as you. Oh, but for the love of the medium, we are here in solidarity- smashed up against a concrete pillar, gleefully bumping bums and craning our necks to get a look at the smoky runway.
Today at Louis Gabriel Noguchi, out of the darkness, whooshing through the foggy lights, past our transfixed eyes, a hierarchy of characters unfold that explore the space-age mission LGN has chosen to accept this season.
Super sleek but architecturally bold monochromatic looks unfold with a variety of cinematic sci-fi references through LGN’s unwavering loyalty to sexy- expressed as it usually is best; bare skin, and hot bods. Which he underscores through sleek craftsmanship and angular tailoring applied to fresh , faintly queer-coded, takes on simple ideas. Reinforcing what he does so well – bold clothes, you can wear without them wearing you – a nod to culture, while looking towards the future. Appropriately imposing and edgy, on the pulse- but nevertheless refined, and powerful.
Boxy, oversized 80s style suit-tailoring and overcoats evoke both the casual power and swagger of a seductive upper working class- perhaps those who’ve organized the mission. And those executing it in ship-crew appropriate ensembles of utilitarian coded bomber jackets and sturdy trousers, punctuated with clunky white leather combat boots. Models stomp past us in simple pewter-grey and grieve colored suits, black gauze hoods covering their faces. Trapezoidal padded shoulders ornamented with Sherpa pelts are sumptuous and regal- giving titan of industry, king of some far away land. A white gauze is wrapped around some perfect man’s perfect muscles, enveloping his abdomen and wrapping up around his face, leaving his biceps and crisp trousers to do the talking. Shibari-braided and tied rope masks wrap around the models’ heads and eyes, accentuating the collection’s elevated-BDSM edge.
The echoes of Sigourney, Weaver’s iconic white tank top and white panties in Alien resonate in one of LGN’s more campy looks – a beefy tan boy with perfect golden curls sports a tiny cropped tank top, “Only Fans” scribbled across the front, with matching little briefs. Wondering if his model profile has the link. Certainly won’t be looking into it any further. Of course not. Would never…
At Louis Gabriel Noguchi, the man who fell to earth, is also ready to go clubbing in Berlin. You might find him in a back room, doing something deliciously unsavory. But you might see him on your 8am commute too, and he has absolutely no shame about it. He’s at once discreet and unflinching, daring and commanding- very compelling.
