Dear Shaded Viewers,
Fashion Week opened with a bang, and the most awaited shows are still keeping fashion lovers in suspense. Above all, the younger voices who are setting the tempo. Victor Weinsanto had the honor of launching the week, and his show was more than a success, it is the beginning of a new era.
His collection, Les Irrésistibles Favorites is inspired by 17th-century courtesans : the renaissance socialites who organised parties and scandals. a celebration of womanhood through the ages. Only two high energy Women could open the show : Allanah Starr and Angèle Micaux. Their comical introduction set the tone embracing all types of women : thin plus-size models, drag queens, trans women, and women of various generations walked together. An inclusive vision that rendered audacity timeless: who cares of your past if you are the light of the party ?
To the tear-stirring live music of ADC303, models emerged slowly, strutting out in a grand bourgeois apartment. The surprise was unanimous. Everybody realised : Weinsanto had entered a new phase. Inspired by the Château du Champ de Bataille in Normandy renovated by the soulful Jacques Garcia, Victor translated its baroque temperament with rare subtlety. Knitted pieces were among his most nuanced to date: sober silhouettes that were quietly arresting, followed by sculptural structures and intricate lacework that raised the drama. Nontheless, he documented himself very carefully during the process. He used taffetas and the same fabric as in the 18th that rended so actual on the runway.
Accessories amplified the story just like Mme de Lavalière who introduced the future tie : a pair of white lace Louboutins sparked up. Untamed coiffures by Kevin Jacotot were astouning, volumetric yet easygoing, just like if they’re coming in the room after flirting in the gardens. Although the collaboration with Damien Moulierac and Amaury Darras was a technical achievement. They contributed a marquetry dress, stunningly worn by Coco Rocha, underlying fluidely her body . Van der Bauwede designed a jewelry collection. The Swiss house restransmited well his biscorn shapes, blending seamlessly with the outfits,leaving the audience hypnotized.
In the end, the show marked a turning point. Weinsanto has always been bold; here, he demonstrated mastery. Whether imagined for galas or contemporary appearances, his new silhouettes claimed audacity while remaining unmistakably French in their insouciance. These looks stand poised not only for runways but for red carpets to come.
Later,
Mael Heinz
