Burç Akyol’s Spring 2026 collection, Gülistan, unfolded like a poetic manifesto—an intricate interplay of memory, resistance, and the pursuit of beauty. The title, meaning “land of roses,” unearths the fragility and resilience embedded in Akyol’s Franco-Turkish heritage, while nodding to a larger cultural tapestry that spans the Kurdish lands and the literary voice of Sadi’s Gülistan. In this collection, the rose is not merely decorative; it is a symbol of hope, rebellion, and ephemeral thrill.
Models walked a rose-printed runway, opening with sharply tailored looks defined by strong shoulders, cinched waists, and more free-falling trousers. The rigidity eased into silks, sheer fabrics, and flowing overlays that introduced movement, echoing the ‘mystifying black figure of a flamenco dancer’ from his father’s cigarette packets—a recurring reference for Akyol. Real rosebuds, hand-painted by his team and worn as dangling earrings, were interspersed throughout, reiterating the collection’s central motif.
A notable inspiration was the designer’s memories of gypsy children in French schools and Roman communities in Istanbul. He cites the lasting impressions of their colours, dances, and sense of freedom, which inform the collection’s uncontainable spirit. This is carried into the collection’s palette, which shifts between stark monochromatic black looks and vibrant combinations of reds, deep blues, and jewel tones. The contrast underscores both the precision of his tailoring and the expressive energy shaped by his formative experiences. His mentorships with John Galliano at Dior and Esteban Cortázar further sharpened his understanding of theatricality and performance, lessons now channelled into his own narrative clarity.
Sustainability played a central role. Several looks were reworked from past collections in collaboration with eBay Endless Runway, emphasising Akyol’s commitment to circularity and the enduring value of well-crafted clothing. His focus remains on quality, versatility, and meaningful design over seasonality.
Gülistan emerged as a focused meditation on cohabitation in a world defined by both fear and generosity. It demonstrated Akyol’s ability to fuse personal history and professional rigour into a collection that felt both intimate and assured, reaffirming his position as a thoughtful voice within the Paris schedule.
