“There was once upon a time… “A king!” my little readers will say all at once.
No, children, you are mistaken. Once upon a time there was a piece of wood.”
Carlo Collodi
“Never, surely, like in fables, the directions in which life searches for itself – towards the darkest roots
and towards the sky – appeared exquisitely, scandalously complementary.”
Cristina Campo
Some collections don’t just dress the body-they excavate memory, turning everyday moments into archaeological finds. This season, memory is not sentimental but analytical: the edge of a sofa becomes a soft, ancient rock, upturned chairs are relics, and the market’s asphalt is a borderland between the familiar and the unknown. Here, the overlooked is elevated, and the mundane is made meaningful.
Boundaries-between home and world, beauty and fear-are central. Silhouettes are pared back, recalling the gaunt outlines of the early 2000s, rendered in black, white, and grey. But these limits are not constraints; they’re invitations to play. Classics are deconstructed: towels become coats, trousers double as swimwear, and garments embrace dysfunction, celebrating the complexity of what’s usually hidden.
Childhood is evoked not as innocence, but as a puzzle of “unlimited limits.” Cross-stitch, once domestic, becomes political, weaving together fragments of identity and internet culture. Even Pinocchio appears-not as a naïve puppet, but as a symbol of transformation and becoming.
Accessories are born from sabotage and reinvention: shoes from racing car reflectors, jewellery from destroyed baskets. Queerness is addressed with care and urgency, particularly in a print quietly referencing chemsex-a reminder that even the most stigmatized experiences deserve empathy.
Ultimately, this collection is about insubordination-of clothes, of bodies, of memory itself. By celebrating the overlooked and the ordinary, it challenges us to find meaning in what we usually forget, and to see fashion not just as adornment, but as argument and act of resistance.
Later,
Diane
