Dear Shaded Viewers,
Last Tuesday, Vincent Pressiat mesmerized us with his latest collection, Cult. This theatrical ensemble, infused with Pressiat’s signature dark intuition, showcasing a visionary approach with a range of looks inspired by theatrical characters and avant-garde artworks. The result was a series of figures that left us spellbound, with each runway presentation offering unexpected surprises, unveiled in situ after the hypnotic loop by Imalaya Music.
The collection’s foundation stems from Pressiat’s fascination with Pierre Soulages (1919-2022), celebrated for his monochromatic black paintings. Pressiat captured the essence of Soulages’ work: black reveals light and texture. This inspiration manifested in plush looks, sleek squared jackets, and resplendent layered evening gowns. Models became living, breathing artworks, embodying the simplicity, relevance, and impressiveness of Soulages’ paintings.
Collaborators paid a vibrant tribute to the Rodez Master. Jewel designers Mele and Marie crafted outstanding experimental necklaces reminiscent of Soulages’ engravings. Those artworks were textured acid-attacked metal pieces where color blended with rust. Hair artist Kevin Jacotot observed Soulages’ work, particularly the reflective lines in the paintings. Then, he transformed fencing helmets into voluptuous petals and designing feathered ensembles that blurred the line between ingénues and black widows.
The collection celebrated the human form with bold cuts and transparent fabrics that revealed the body. Leather outfits hugged every contour of the silhouette, with sophisticated apparent laces disposed with refinement. A standout piece was a gimp suit worn by comedy queen Angèle Micaux, who strutted the runway to Bach’s Toccata in a tight leather combination that accentuated her curvaceous silhouette.
Pressiat revisited two iconic materials: faux fur and leopard print. Faux fur coats were imposing, almost enveloping the models. The leopard print was enhanced in silver, complementing black without overwhelming the eye. Singer Ogee, making her runway debut, confessed that her look gave her the confidence to shine at parties until dawn.
The runway’s climax was the final look: a leopard-printed dress in PVC with an apparent structure. The clingy fabric acted like a second skin, enhancing the one week see thought. This collection proves that Pressiat delves deep into our collective unconscious to Bring out heroes from our times
You can also enjoy Pressiat’s sunglasses collection with Thierry Lasry. Stay alert for the upcoming release of his new perfume, Cuir de Peau, developed with Emmanuelle Grin from Martine Collette Parfum.
Later,
Mael Heinz
