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In his latest collection, Yuima Nakazato weaves an immersive narrative on nature, humanity, waste, and purpose with singularly elegant artistry. His collection of masterfully manipulated and juxtaposed materials is accompanied by the sounds of loud crashing waves and howling winds, which emphasize and encapsulate the power within the beautiful chaos of the natural world and the landscapes that have influenced him. Images of an angry sea or desert storm are evoked in the long, flowing deep blue silk trail of a leather-brimmed hat or in massive braided fabric that drags along a large pile of sand in the middle of Nakazato’s runway. What appears to be a knit catsuit from afar is actually quietly clinking chain mail encasing his models’ arms and heads as if they were emerging from some fashionable dystopia. A billowing white hooded silk cape almost scoops the audience up in its underbelly.
While his oceanic and desert influences are prevalent in the first degree, Nakazato also embraces the capacity for dark fantasy within these extensive landscapes, which manifests itself in reinterpreted avant-garde utilitarian silhouettes punctuated by unassuming modern high-top sneakers and rubber boots. Heavy gold chains sculpt and hang off the body almost fluidly. This chain detailing finds itself more accessibly applied to deconstructed satin blazers and trousers or in the fine gold zip detailing on billowing white silk. Fossil-esque ceramic forms in shades of deep turquoise and bronze are carefully woven into dip-dyed lace and intricate crochets. Nakazato thoughtfully walks the line between arbitrary and organic, contemporary and antiquated, light and dark.
In his final look, Yuima himself emerges barefoot in an understated white ensemble, climbing onto the mountain of sand to excavate an encrusted gold gown. He ties his final model into the glistening gold-plated dress with a sort of graceful devotion. As the model is delicately corseted into this dress (it must weigh at least 30 pounds) she radiates intense stoicism.
By integrating various Japanese artisanal techniques into his process, the collection balances a delicate harmony of contrasting materials and timelines, settling into a liminal space that references both the spontaneous elegance of organic forms and a meticulous appreciation for technique, reinforcing a profound appreciation for craft, material, and the environmental consequences of these processes. An exploration of temporality defines his work and his message. Together, his references combine to create a show that is totally retro-futuristic and cinematic. He plays on the idea of being lost in time and space, surrendered to Mother Earth and her intensity and power. Very Prometheus… very Dune. I’m also reminded of Damien Hirst’s “Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable.” This is much better.
In a moment where designs seem increasingly influenced by a desire to be technologically relevant, Nakazato remains devoted to nature and artistry. Through this tribute, his collection bears a rare, resounding depth and beauty.
