Dear Shaded Viewers,
Junya Watanabe’s latest menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2025-2026, unveiled in Paris, marks a striking return to the rugged aesthetics of the great outdoors, with a particular nod to lumberjack chic. The designer has skillfully reimagined workwear classics, infusing them with his signature deconstructionist touch.
The collection is a love letter to the iconic Mackinaw Cruiser, a hip-length coat firstpatented by Filson in 1914. Watanabe’s collaboration with the American heritage brand has resulted in a series of reinterpretations of this utilitarian staple. Each look in the 41-piece collection features a unique twist on the Mackinaw design, from reconstructed parkas to blazers trimmed with shearling, all layered with meticulous attention to detail.
Plaid patterns, reminiscent of classic lumberjack checks, weave through the collection with rustic charm.
The designer’s penchant for deconstruction is evident in the layered flannel shirts adorned with intricate patchwork, and work jackets that blur the line between traditional and avant-garde. The color palette is dominated by earthy tones, punctuated by occasional bursts of pumpkin orange, adding a contemporary edge to the outdoorsy theme.
Watanabe’s collection is not merely a nostalgic nod to the past but a forward-thinking reimagining of outdoor wear. The designer has managed to capture the essence of rugged functionality while infusing it with a distinctly urban sensibility. This juxtaposition of rural and urban, traditional and modern, is what sets Watanabe’s work apart.
Watanabe frames this collection as a celebration of “good workwear,” sharing his admiration for Filson’s enduring designs. This approach aligns with Watanabe’s longstanding fascination with examining the quotidian and rendering it extraordinary. As models strode down the runway sporting full beards and carrying tan canvas bags, one could almost smell the pine forests and hear the distant echo of an axe striking wood. Watanabe’s genius lies in his ability to take these familiar elements and transform them into something entirely new and unexpected.
In an era dominated by tech-wear and futuristic designs, Watanabe’s return to rugged, tactile fabrics and time-honored silhouettes feels both refreshing and radical. It’s a reminder that sometimes, looking back can be the most forward-thinking move of all.
Later,
Diane
