Francesco Bertolini, Design Director of Ports 1961 Shares His Tips for Success & Vision for the Brand

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Ports 1961 was founded in 1961 by Canadian entrepreneur Luke Tanabe, inspired by his desire to create the perfect shirt for his wife. The brand’s original ethos of global travel has remained its guiding principle through decades of evolution. In the early 1980s, Luke’s children, Christine and Miki Tanabe, took over the business and expanded its reach to Europe. In 1988, the brand collaborated with the renowned design duo Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2.

A significant relaunch occurred in 2004 when Fiona and Tia Cibani brought Ports 1961 to New York City. In 2011, the brand returned to Europe, establishing a presence in Milan before relocating to London in 2017. Nataša Čagalj then served as the brand’s creative director in 2014, overseeing its continued evolution. Francesco Bertolini officially joined the house in 2019, when it was under the creative direction of Karl Templer, before taking over as Design Director earlier this year.

Born in Tuscany, Bertolini boasts an impressive career, having worked for renowned fashion houses like Salvatore Ferragamo, Vionnet, and Prada Group. His designs are often characterised by a unique blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern aesthetics.

As his debut collection (SS25) for the brand was recently unveiled in Milan — showcasing the very essence of Ports 1961 and his artistic vision for the brand, we had the opportunity to speak to Bertolini about his journey into the industry. He shares with us his tips on what it takes to be successful in fashion and what the future holds for Ports 1961.

Bethany: Where did the journey begin for you?

Bertolini: My journey as a fashion designer and creative began in my childhood. I have always been fascinated by beauty, striving to understand the reasoning behind the execution of a work and the techniques employed, in order to grasp the emotions they convey. I have consistently sought to nurture my creativity and explore how my mind can process various notions and information, ultimately returning them as a form of beauty from a different perspective. It is essential to have something to convey, a point of view.

Bethany: What drew you to the fashion industry?

Bertolini: I gradually realised that my point of view for self-expression was directed towards fashion—in the form of clothes, shapes, fabrics, and silhouettes. I felt, and still feel, a deep emotion and passion when studying the works of old couturiers. I would secretly draw instead of studying, completely captivated by the allure of film stars and by designers who view the world in unconventional ways, like Yamamoto, John Galliano, and Comme des Garçons, as well as by masters of perfect tailoring and the balance of proportions and colours such as YSL, Valentino, and Vionnet. This led me to pursue the study of this craft and profession.

Bethany: What’s the best part of the design process for you?

Bertolini: The best part of the design process is working extensively on the construction and deconstruction of garments, creating a modern and contemporary image. However, these days, I find the initial stages of the process—such as inspiration, research, and curiosity—equally fascinating. This is where I start to build my narrative, and it is from this point that all the details, which make the collection unique and constantly evolving, begin to develop.

Bethany: What tricks of the trade did you learn from the beginning of your journey as a fashion intern till now?

Bertolini: I’ve learned the importance of continuous research into creativity and innovation, as well as maintaining a curiosity for discovering and exploring new forms of beauty. Technically, I’ve developed a meticulous approach to my work, with an almost obsessive attention to shapes and details, involving mannequin draping and testing alongside the atelier’s seamstresses. However, I always keep in mind that the garment must be wearable and desirable. This requires learning to listen and be inspired by people’s moods and emotions. Fashion allows you to express many things and create new forms of beauty.

Bethany: This has been a crazy few months for you, with your debut collection as Design Director. How does it feel? What can we expect from SS25?

Bertolini: Taking the helm as Design Director at PORTS 1961 is a dream come true, and I am incredibly excited by this journey. PORTS 1961 has always been synonymous with a global perspective and a deep appreciation for cultural diversity, which has inspired me to create a collection that honours this legacy while introducing a fresh, contemporary spirit.

Bertolini: For SS25, which we’ll be presenting at Milan Fashion Week, my team in Milan and I have been working tirelessly to craft a collection that resonates with the essence of PORTS 1961—one that seamlessly blends the familiarity of heritage and traditional craftsmanship with a modern twist. We’re delving into innovative fabrics, experimenting with silhouettes, and reimagining the codes of the Maison to speak directly to the women of today.

“Talent alone can only take you so far; it’s not enough. Hard work, determination, passion, and teamwork are essential. We must constantly evolve to improve.” – Francesco Bertolini

Bethany: What has been your greatest triumph in your career so far?

Bertolini: Managing the design of such a prestigious and globally recognised company as PORTS 1961 is undoubtedly my greatest achievement. PORTS 1961 embodies a wanderer spirit and international essence, which resonates deeply with my creative vision. The brand’s history and its commitment to blending cultural influences from around the world have allowed me to explore new horizons in design. PORTS 1961 has shown me that dedication and passion for my work, combined with creativity, can yield extraordinary results. Seeing my designs come to life within this unique context, where global influences and a sense of adventure are at the heart of the maison, is the culmination of years of hard work, creativity, and perseverance. It’s a true honour to contribute to a brand that celebrates diversity, travel, and the beauty of the world through fashion.

Bethany: What do you think it takes to be successful in fashion?

Bertolini: To succeed in fashion, one must study, be curious, and always strive to learn, continually nurturing creativity. Talent alone can only take you so far; it’s not enough. Hard work, determination, passion, and teamwork are essential. We must constantly evolve to improve.

Bethany: What does the future hold for Ports 1961?

Bertolini: With PORTS 1961, we are embarking on a truly exciting journey that honours the brand’s rich heritage while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion.

Bertolini: As we move forward, we are exploring the dialogue between my creativity, the brand’s legacy and the reality, seeking new forms of beauty and evoke strong emotions. This journey is not just about fashion; it’s about creating a lifestyle that speaks to those who appreciate the art of living, the elegance of discovery, and the allure of the unknown.

Bertolini: We are also eager to discover new synergies with other art forms, whether it be painting, design, music, or cinema, to further enrich our collections and tell stories that transcend the boundaries of fashion. PORTS 1961 is more than just a label; it’s a cultural statement, a brand that reflects a cosmopolitan lifestyle and a deep connection to the world.

Bertolini: I’m looking forward to exploring new aspects of myself as a designer within this extraordinary context, travelling, evolving, and achieving beautiful goals together with PORTS 1961. The future is bright, and I am excited to see where this journey takes us.

Later,

Bethany