Dear Shaded viewers,
Gabriel Figueiredo debuted his first runway show during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, for his brand De Pino. He wants the brand to remain ready to wear, but this year he played on the concepts of craftsmanship that belong to couture. The show maintained intimacy with the audience sat inches from the models, allowing them to truly appreciate the work that goes into the designs. Ultimately the show and collection were a tribute to what makes fashion, fashion.
The collection and visual references come from Gabriel’s earliest memories of fashion from the late 2000s, the final years before social media exposed the last threads of mystery of the industry. He turns these memories into a collection for those in the modern day who live for the craft. At the same time, a strong comedic energy comes from his parody of the culture with little absurdities. His designs embrace ironic twists, inviting joy into conversations that are far more dire than they need to be.
Looks stripped down to the essentials, taking silhouettes iconic to Gabriel as if viewed directly through his memory. Models circled the tight space but walked quickly, accentuating this effect as the audience had to grasp at details before they headed back down the staircase. Childishly large shapes were a humorous way to revisit the past with a tone of admiration. While full of references, the collection provides a contemporary take, infusing new ideas, textures, and techniques instead of dwelling aimlessly. While Gabriel prefers to use womenswear as a starting point, as it allows more room to play, his designs manage to find a balance between masculine and feminine.
Overgrown Gaga bangs covered most of the model’s faces, acting as a myriad of characters.
Cream, black, and white oversized jackets envelop the body, referencing Nicolas Ghesquire’s volumes at Balenciaga in FW2006. Gabriel strips down the details of the looks to abstract shapes. Not only are silhouettes oversized, but tailoring is exaggerated by fusing heavy wool and neoprene layers into cocoon shapes and puffy circles around the head to replace collars. Patterns were recreated with textured wool hand-embroidery and similarly thick, fuzzy fishnet tights were styled with some of the looks. The helmet hats seen in Balenciaga’s FW2006 show appear comically expanded to swallow the head.
Flaps of vinyl decorated with graphic abstracted flower shapes hung from the body as a dress and skirt, directly referencing the final looks of Miucca Prada’s FW09, another pivotal design in Gabriel’s memory.
Having been an embroider at Maison Margiela and still freelancing on the artisanal line, the aesthetic quality and textural exploration of Gabriel’s collection evoked qualities of Martin Margiela’s final collections. The techniques used to blow up silhouettes are reminiscent of Margiela’s doll clothes of the mid 90s and mini tank tops and bikini bottoms appliquéd on nude, body con dresses referenced paper doll dressing. The show closed with an elaborate dress made of ouatine, a lightweight material traditionally used for padding. It floated behind the model and graced the knees of the closely sat audience.
Much more than a tribute to the designers raised Gabriel to the designer he is today, the collection was a loving retrospective of his formative memories and first interactions with the craft of fashion. It was created for those who share the same devotion and respect for the art form. There is much more to look forward to from De Pino starting with a more commercial and accessible collection is said to be released in September.
Later,
